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 Post subject: 8th army uniforms
PostPosted: Thu 26 Jun 2008 00:03 am 
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Does anyone have a reference for how to paint the 8th army as depicted in the multipose range? Eg is there a painting guide with that pack?

I have 29 1/32 Desert Rats to paint and very little idea how.

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PostPosted: Thu 26 Jun 2008 00:34 am 
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There is this site:
http://www.miniatures.de/int/camouflage-british.html
but mainly for vehicles, by the looks of it.

I don't think you can go too far wrong with H72 for the uniform bits, with variations in tone for fading, and with slightly greener webbing, and brown leather belts etc. Helmets seem to be a bit darker, too, and shinier, obviously … maybe one coat of Klear …?

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PostPosted: Thu 26 Jun 2008 22:38 pm 
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This is from the instructions

Quote:
The figures in this set the standard issue khaki drill shirt and shorts (72 LIGHT BEIGE), ribbed long woollen socks with gaiters and canvas webbing equipment (26 KHAKI DRILL). Black leather boots (21 GLOSS BLACK). The steel helmet was often painted sand colour (74 BUFF). Clothing soon became faded and discoloured under desert conditions. Insignia  provided in decal form in this set comes under normal British Army regulations "to be worn at all times" although this was not strictly adhered to and was of course removed for special operations or "Recce" patrols. Other ranks  chevrons were usually on a band slipped over the right arm of the K.D. shirt as illustrated. Bands for Signallers, Medics and Military Police are also provided. It should noted the officers cap peak and badge (Part No. 66) is cemented to the front of the cap (Part No. 64). Metal parts on weapons should be painted (53 MIDDLE GRAPHITE). If required chin straps, riffle slings etc. can be cut out from plastic card.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri 27 Jun 2008 00:33 am 
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Gun metal or "middle graphite" is difficult to justify except for, maybe, very worn bits of weapons. H85 is as good a match as you'll get for black anodised metal. It's interesting to note, though, that the woodwork varied quite widely in colour. Some was honey-coloured, while older Lee-Enfields might have been packed in grease, for instance, for part of their lives, and the butts were consequently much darker.

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 Post subject: Re: 8th army uniforms
PostPosted: Fri 27 Jun 2008 00:37 am 
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Beaufighter wrote:

I have 29 1/32 Desert Rats to paint and very little idea how.


It just struck me here, that you're painting polyprop figures.

I presume you won't be covering them with superglue first - as it would use a lot of glue, but if you don't, then you should think about some way of preserving the paint once it's on.

I recently tried using Klear as a "primer" (on a HO/OO figure), but that wasn't wholly successful. I think Klear works ok to protect paint as a finishing coat, mixed with matt base.

When painting the figures, you might find it helpful to paint them black first as an undercoat - kind of like preshading, but all-over.


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PostPosted: Fri 27 Jun 2008 10:18 am 
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Hi Brews

Yes, I'm painting polyprop figures here. I painted some Japanese first, mainly because there is a Vallejo colour called "Japanese Uniform Green", which saves a lot of thought. I am currently toying with some Australians, who are quite interesting to paint. They were en route to the western desert in khaki shirts when the Japanese attacked, so they about-turned and sailed for Malaya instead, dying their shirts jungle green en route aboard ship. This resulted in blue-grey shirts! Between that and the mixture of US and British kit they wore they end up looking quite colourful.

Getting a completely flat finish on them is hard. The only way to do so IME is to paint them, coat them in Klear, then spray them with Humbrol enamel matt varnish that has been shaken for at least ten minutes.

One can also used thinned-down PVA wood glue as either undercoat or varnish or both, but it still comes out shiny.

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PostPosted: Fri 27 Jun 2008 18:23 pm 
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A good friend of mine recommends the wood glue technique for soft plastic figures.....Spray the painted figures with a very thin solution of PVA wood glue.  It is flexible, yet tough enough to keep the paint on and it dries clear.  :idea:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu 07 Aug 2008 08:42 am 
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I am trying to re-inact a classic 8th Army battle with a german colleague of mine Henrik and was wondering what are the options of colour in order to depict the correct battle scene.

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PostPosted: Thu 07 Aug 2008 15:59 pm 
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Quite a good guide for painting 8th Army figures can be found at the following link

http://www.shqminiatures.com/Xtras/PaintingGuides.htm

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Stu


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PostPosted: Sat 04 Apr 2009 23:11 pm 
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Thought I might add these pics as I did this run through of painting an 8th Army polyprop before working out if there was a place on the forum for it.

These are the best shots I took, you'd think having taken one decent I could manage more as well. I did them over about  an hour and a half to two hours.

Having washed with a bit of fairy and water, and roughly dried with kitchen roll its time to "undercoat". Slap on some black (Chaos Black as the other black acrylic I have to hand is satin). With a black undercoat it's less obvious if you miss bits.
Even then its rather shiny. A tin of spray black for a nice matt finish wold have been better; I want the paint to stay rather than run in the early stages.

Image

Now some basic colours, I'm not bothering to go to the boundaries of colours as that'll save a bit of shading.

Image

Colours are snakebite leather (rifle wood and boots and straps) , Orc brown (helmet, shirt and shorts) and bronzed flesh. All best part of 10 years old (or older) so a bit thick in places.

Image
Image
Image

after some touching up, I apply a chestnut wash (I don't think they make it any more) to rifle and skin to add some depth. He looks a bit sunburnt, doesn't he.

Image

So back over with some more flesh. This is not drybrushing but more dragging the thick sticky paint over the highpoints

Image

Hadn't done the socks/puttees so slap on some bleached bone - too white! I've also mixed bleached bone with Orc brown to paint some highlights on the cloth. This generally gives some difference between the colour of the clothes and the helmet. Bolt gun metal for the rifle.

Image

So a yellow wash to try and change the sock colour. While I'm it I slap some on the helmet and water bottle for more difference from the uniform.

Image

But I've overcooked the socks, so back with bleached bone as a another semi-drybrush. A bit of the same on the ammo pouch which I'd left as leather at some point and stop there as its nearly time for tea.

Image
Image

Its not colour accurate, rather sloppy in places but given that my four year old has already asked if he can have it to play with it will have to do.

No doubt if I was doing the other 19 at the same time, I'd be able to allow longer for the paint to dry and I'd mix/blend the paint more before use.


Graeme


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun 05 Apr 2009 09:37 am 
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The SMLE needs more wood and less gunmetal, the barrel was only really visible at the breech and muzzle cap

http://enfieldrifles.profusehost.net/ri2a.htm

And the webbing was frequently left untreated in its natural sandy colour which gradually bleached under the sun (as did most things).

David

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun 05 Apr 2009 10:48 am 
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DavidM wrote:

And the webbing was frequently left untreated in its natural sandy colour which gradually bleached under the sun (as did most things).

David


More bleached bone it is.

Now I look at the LE on the model, I see what happened, the mould makes more of the line between the upper and lower sections of wood and I assumed  I was looking at a demarcation between barrel and stock. Result something more akin to the Lee-Metford thatn  Lee-Enfield

Rule 1 of painting - pin a reference picture up nearby.

thanks for the pointers.
I think a trip to the model shop for  the correct paints is called for.

Graeme


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun 05 Apr 2009 14:14 pm 
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I wouldn't knock yourself out over the "correct" paints for desert uniforms, Graeme. There's no such thing.

I speak as someone who once painted 700 28mm Napoleonics (subsequently stolen).

The very best way to make a unit look unrealistic is to paint them all out of the same tin. It just doesn't happen.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun 05 Apr 2009 14:43 pm 
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On the subject of the right paints, for me it's more a question that the orc brown has thickened with age - its just about usable for 1/32 but I have the 1/76 8th army to do as well in the future. If I use that they poor boys will look like they've been artexed.

I also need a khaki for the 1/32 British Army support weapons set. I've tried various colours that I've got but nothing is near.
While I'm happy to mix small amounts of paint for shading and highlighting, I don't fancy doing a pot load.


Graeme.


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PostPosted: Mon 10 Sep 2012 19:10 pm 
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Andrea Colour Flesh Paint Set = skin tones
Vallejo Colour 70818/136 Red Leather 70871/147 Leather Brown 70872/149 Chocolate Brown = hair
Clothing soon became faded and discoloured under desert conditions. Insignia comes under normal British Army regulations "to be worn at all times" although this was not strictly adhered to and was of course removed for special operations or "Recce" patrols. Other ranks’ chevrons were usually on a band slipped over the right arm of the K.D. shirt. Bands were also issued to Signallers, Medics and Military Police.
Humbrol Hu: 72 Khaki Drill / Hu: 93 Matt Desert Yellow = shirt, shorts
Hu: 26 Matt Khaki / Hu: 72 Matt Khaki Drill = ribbed long woollen socks with gaiters and canvas webbing equipment
Hu: 9 Gloss Tan = A "glaze" painted over weapon base coat for wood effect
Hu: 53 Gun Metal = metal parts on weapons
Hu: 21 Gloss Black = boots
Hu: 29 Matt Dark Earth = Water canteen
Hu: 186 Matt Brown = Bayonet handle, base coat for wooden areas of weapons
Hu: 74 Matt Linen = steel helmet
Hu: 94 Matt Brown Yellow = Helmets
Hu: 187 Matt Dark Stone = puttees, plus some webbing and pouches and haversacks
Hu: 83 Matt Ochre = some webbing and pouches and haversacks
Hu: 168 Hemp = some webbing and pouches and haversacks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon 10 Sep 2012 21:39 pm 
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That's an informative list. I'll keep a note of them.

Ta.

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 Post subject: Re: 8th army uniforms
PostPosted: Sat 30 Aug 2014 10:16 am 
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I use Vallejo paints and have found Green Ochre perfect for main uniform of 8th army. Use contrasting shades for webbing.

Ken


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 Post subject: Re: 8th army uniforms
PostPosted: Sat 30 Aug 2014 13:15 pm 
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The last lot I painted in acrylics :arrow:
Ac: 2nd Shadow = flesh tones
Ac: 1st Shadow = flesh tones
Ac: 2nd Base = skin tones
Ac: 1st Base = skin tones
Ac: 2nd Light = skin tones
Ac: 1st Light = skin tones
Vc: 70818/136 Red Leather/Vc: 70871/147 Leather Brown/Vc: 70872/149 Chocolate Brown = hair
Ha: 33 Matt Black = bayonet
Vc: 114 70879 Green Brown = ribbed long woollen socks with gaiters, shorts, steel helmet
Vc: 115 70988 Khaki = shirt, shorts
Vc: 141 70921 English Uniform = Officers cap, belt, holster, shorts, service cap, canvas webbing equipment, packs, bayonet frog
Ha: 85 Satin Coal Black = boots, binoculars, microphone
Ha: 93 Matt Desert Yellow = packs, webbing, rifle/mg stock
Ha: 9 Gloss Tan = A "glaze" painted over weapon base coat for wood effect Lee Enfield rifle, Bren stock
Vc: 179 70863 Gunmetal Grey = bayonet blade, gun parts, Sten gun, magazine
Ha: 155 Matt Olive Drab = gaiters, packs, bayonet frog, webbing
Vc: 140 70984 Flat Brown = Thompson smg stock, canteen, bayonet handle
Ha: 11 Metallic Silver Fox = binocular lenses
Vc: 174 70801 Brass = buckles, cap insignia

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