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PostPosted: Mon 28 Sep 2009 14:14 pm 
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Here's the way I do 'clean' wood rather than weathered.

1. Paint area to be wood white.

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2. A coat of H121 Pale Stone was brushed over the white.

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3. Then before it had dried completely I used an old thin brush and added a light coat of H94 Brown Yellow over the top. As the previous coat hadn't dried it sort of ran into each other giving the beggining of the wood effect.

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4. Again, whilst the paint was still damp I got a decent thin brush and added some more wood grain using H110 Natual Wood. You could leave it at this stage if you want bare planed wood.

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5. Humbrol H1322 Clear Orange was brushed over the top to get the wood looking like varnished wood -hopefully! Once that was dry it was given a coat of Gloss Varnish to really make it shine, and to protect it.

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Using white, then H26 Khaki, H1322 Clear Orange then Matt varnish last gives the effect as shown here...

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Using white, then H26 Khaki, H1322 Clear Orange and no varnish gives it this colour..

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It works for me.

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PostPosted: Mon 28 Sep 2009 15:27 pm 
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Brilliant work both.....If only more tanks were made of wood!  :lol:

All the best
Sgt.S

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PostPosted: Mon 28 Sep 2009 18:30 pm 
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Gold & Bronze Stars
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I'm going to have to switch to sailing boats!  Thanks BAC - those are excellent and it looks like we're using similar layers to get the effect.

Wonder if we'll end up with a library of methods for different woods...

Sarge, didn't the German army use wooden 'practice' tanks for exercises between the wars?    :P


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PostPosted: Fri 15 Jan 2010 21:20 pm 
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OK guys, here's a - probably already covered - question to which I can't find the answer.

I've just bought the Revell Mayflower cheap off fleabay so that I can practice my techniques before going on to something more expensive.

One of my problems is how to get a wood finish.  Before anybody asks, I've already read that most people appear to use one of the Humbrol Wood tones, overcoated with 'Clear Orange'.  Trouble is, I'm very allergic to enamel paint and so have to use acrylics.

So, the question is:  would I get the same effect using the acrylic 'wood' colour - say H26 or H110 - with a diluted Orange?  Or is there a better way of achieving this?

Cheers!

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PostPosted: Fri 15 Jan 2010 22:07 pm 
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In a word experiment  :idea:

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PostPosted: Sun 17 Jan 2010 02:44 am 
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Tamiya X-26 'Clear Orange' is an acrylic.  :idea:

HTH & All the best
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PostPosted: Fri 09 Sep 2011 11:29 am 
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Okay this may not exactly be applicable to Airfix and other plastic kits, but I was wandering if anyone had any ideas on mixing their own wood stains ?

Typically I am making a wooden Endeavour and there are various colours of wood stain required. I can find paints to match the colours but I want to use woodstain as I feel it would give a more realistic of not somewhat asthetic appearance and allow the wood grain to show. To purchase genuine woodstains would be quite expensive and I would need to purchase in much greater quantities than I really need.

My initial idea is to get something like white spirit or sandin sealer or clear dope and add coloured paints to achieve desired colour. Will I need to be the first to experiment with this or has anyone already done or know of such methods being used for colouring wood.

Other ideas was to use varying strengths of Tea or Coffee as a stain.

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

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PostPosted: Fri 09 Sep 2011 11:36 am 
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A simple search reveals the answer  :idea:
Threads merged  :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri 09 Sep 2011 12:18 pm 
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Gold & Bronze Stars
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If you are building a wooden POB kit and want to retain a wood finish - use different woods and just clear varnish . . . alternatively there is the range of paints and varnishes that Caldercraft (the model ship company)  market which are sold in little pots and come in walnut and other colours/finishes.  They sell direct to public as do places such as Model Dockyard in Truro, and Westbourne models - in Bournemouth/Poole.

I am not going elude or elaborate further on the matter on this forum - as it is a plastic forum - but you might consider trying MSW for wooden model matters - over on that forum they cover wood and plastic but predominantly it is wooden and a lot of it is boats from the golden age of sail - rather than steel warships.

If you would like any further assistance I would be happy to assist and politely suggest we keep this topic back at plastic so - please do feel free to contact me - by PM.


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PostPosted: Fri 11 May 2012 21:27 pm 
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Sgt.Squarehead:187704 wrote:
Brilliant work both.....If only more tanks were made of wood!  :lol:

All the best
Sgt.S

I was at an airshow and one of Peter Jackson's film props was there namely a WW1 tank . It looked really authentic trundling past . Later I saw it parked up , with a panel removed , inside it was all made of plywood mounted on an old bulldozer .


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PostPosted: Sun 13 Apr 2014 22:18 pm 
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I've used variations of Brian's technique :!:
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Hu: 26 Matt Khaki & Hu: 1322 Clear Orange

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XF-52: Flat Earth & X-26: Clear Orange

I tried out a new approach for the woodwork. First the sprues were sprayed with a black primer, then I painted Revell Aqua 36 382 Silk Wood Brown over the parts, not concerning myself as to the coverage; indeed it looked rather ragged. Once this was dry I used a transparent paint, Vallejo Model Colour 182 70828 Woodgrain, applied with a stipple brush. The effect (I feel) is quite realistic. The variation of tones (where the black shows through the first coat of brown) coupled with the strokes of transparent paint give a good, wooden effect.
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PostPosted: Fri 06 May 2016 17:58 pm 
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Evening All,

I have been posting a scratch build on a wooden hulled flying boat and have had a question about how I achieved the wood finish. I have answered the question on the thread but am posting here too as some people may not look in the section on scratch builds when thinking about how to paint a wood finish. This description follows advice from a fellow modeller (Epeeman) who achieves a finish on his models which many of us would die for - and all with a hairy stick. This method is for dark red wooden hulls, but I think that if the colours were changed almost any wood could be reasonably represented. This finish is infinitely better than using enamels or acrylics.

The method is as follows:
1. Put on a primer coat of ocker (ochre) Revell acrylic 88 on to the areas which are to be wood. I water this 50:50 paint/water and apply three or four coats to get an even smooth finish.
2. I use oil paints (in my case Rowney artists colours): burnt sienna and raw sienna in the approximate ratio of 3:1. You can vary this according to how dark/light you want the finish to be - experiment a bit.
3. I put a small amount of the oil paints on to some toilet paper and leave them for about 30 minutes to let some of the oils seep out into the paper. This makes the finished paint dry more quickly.
4. Mix the paints and apply to the model: depending upon the brush you use you will get a streaky effect. Do not try to get a completely smooth or even finish because you will be wasting your time, so allow for a little streaking and unevenness. I put my models into a warm cupboard for 2 - 4 days to allow the paint to dry completely.
5 I use Revell clear orange acrylic varnish (730) which is again watered at about the same ratio as the ochre paint. I apply as many coats as I feel necessary until I have a smooth finish. I then coat with watered and mixed matt and gloss clear varnish to get an "eggshell" finish.

It is all based on "suck it and see": you can vary the oil paint mixtures to get different tones for different wood panels of course. You can also vary the quantity of orange clear varnish or use Revell red (rot) 731 if you wish, but I find the latter too red and dark for my own liking.

Thanks for looking.


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