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stuzzar · Posted: Wed 27 Jun 2007 14:48 pm Post subject: Centurion Tank GB-Brews Build

Brews build will be posted here

Brews · Posted: Wed 27 Jun 2007 18:36 pm Post subject:

I really miss not having my RTV silicone and polyurethane resin materials with me. I had made some hubcaps for the Centurion, you see, but the moulds are in New Zealand still. I might have to make some more!

stuzzar · Posted: Mon 02 Jul 2007 18:38 pm Post subject:

Having assembled the running gear I can see that it could certainly do with some hub caps

Cheers

Stu

Brews · Posted: Sat 07 Jul 2007 12:50 pm Post subject:

I've been thinking about getting started on this, and I'll do it now. I'm going to use the article on making the Mk 5 (though it curiously refers to Mk 6 in the text and photos, too!). It would be the Mk 5/2, as it has the 105mm. I'd prefer the Mk 5/1, but I have that in 1:35.

Here goes ...

Brews · Posted: Sat 07 Jul 2007 13:40 pm Post subject:

I think that sometimes, when you start looking for demons, you can see more than those that actually exist. I started following the conversion article, but on comparing the positions of the bogies with the plans, only one cut is needed, as opposed to the suggested two (and it's being really picky to say that the cut is NEEDED, as the difference in length of the hull side part 19 is less than 2mm - closer to 1mm). This is not to say that the overall length of the kit compared to the plans is only 1mm ... more to come on that.

Brews · Posted: Sat 07 Jul 2007 15:23 pm Post subject:

Click on the pics for larger images, of course.

The first one shows large sink holes in the hull floor.

This one shows Hull side Part 19 on the sprue. I just noticed the spelling of "Centurion". Quirky!

Ok, there is a phenomenon known as paralax, but you can take it from me that there doesn't seem to be a correction needed between the middle and rear bogie assemblies. The front bogie and drive sprocket are too far back.

Comment above applies here, too.

Part 19 cut once (slice and snap method) - and placed on plan to show result.

0.010" (10 thou) card glued to inside of part 19, with gap-filling superglue, to allow adjustment while settling (this differs from suggested method in the magazine article, which was to use 2mm wide strips of 40 thou plastic card).

Hull bottom cut apart.

Brews · Posted: Sun 08 Jul 2007 07:55 am Post subject:

Happy that the conversion of the hull will be easy enough, I turned my attention to the turret.

In the article, the author resorted to building a new turret out of plastic card, and filing to make it more rounded. As my skills with plastic card are insufficient to make decent Rommel boxes for Panthers, I thought I'd make do with as much of the original turret as possible.

As it turns out, I CAN understand why the author decided to build a new turret. Frustration, probably, plus a high degree of scratchbuilding skills.

The fundamental issue with the turret is that its ring is about 3 - 3.5mm too narrow in diameter. The mantlet is the correct width. The rear overhang of the turret is a little too wide, if anything, but it quickly becomes too narrow as it goes forward. The upper (flat) part of the turret, on which the loader's and commander's hatches are located, is too small. The cupola is about the right size, but the loader's hatch is too small.

The solution that I will attempt is as follows:

Make a new upper part for the turret out of 0.010 or 0.020" card.
Cut a turret floor out of 0.020" card - this will be a circle of 32mm diameter more or less. Unfortunately, I'm without a circle cutter, but I do have some circle templates with me.
Cut the turret with vertical lateral cuts, behind the mantlet, and in front of the rear overhang - basically leaving the original turret ring.
Fit the turret sides to the new turret floor, insert the original turret floor through the new turret floor (so that the pin can be used to locate the turret in the hole in the hull top - otherwise I'd be making a whole turret ring!)
Stretch the front of the turret, and blend in the front and rear overhangs
Stretch the side lockers - or make new ones out of card.
Blend with putty as needed (anticipating quite a bit of blending).

davecov · Posted: Sun 08 Jul 2007 08:21 am Post subject:

Sounds like fun, Brews.

Good luck!

Dave
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Brews · Posted: Sun 08 Jul 2007 14:20 pm Post subject:

Cuts made, photos taken, batteries flat - will upload pics later. This will work fine, I'm sure.

When I'm finished, I'll market the resin correction for 5GBP on ebay.

The only trouble with that is that my resin making stuff is all in NZ, and there doesn't seem to be a Canadian supplier, so whatever I get will have to come from the US, and postage has just increased. Sigh.

Brews · Posted: Mon 09 Jul 2007 05:44 am Post subject:

The plastic card circle to fit as the turret "floor":

You have an idea from this shot as to the inaccuracy of the top "plate" of the turret:

But really, the turret is only about 3mm too narrow:

stuzzar · Posted: Tue 10 Jul 2007 15:08 pm Post subject:

This looks like a very interesting and involved conversion Brews, glad I built mine out of the box

Looking forward to seeing it finished

Cheers

Stu

Brews · Posted: Sat 28 Jul 2007 19:01 pm Post subject:

I can't believe I haven't posted anything on this for a fortnight or more! I have been thinking about the tracks ... and I might scratchbuild as much as I need to make them fit. This will involve, I think, three longitudinal strips of 0.005" card, or maybe 0.010" card, with the grousers made from strips of 0.010" or 0.020" card. That's what I'm thinking, anyway.

Brews · Posted: Sat 25 Aug 2007 19:33 pm Post subject:

Ok, I've had a VERY productive morning.

I made some 20mm or so length of track using 3 x 1.5 mm wide strips of 5 thou card and a thin strip of 10 thou card for the grousers.

I also finished the lower hull joins, and joined the lower hull to the sides and glacis plate.

I then got stuck into the turret, and it's now at a point where you can see that it's going to work out nicely. The new, enlarged, roof is on, the new turret ring is on, the sides are on, the rear is on, and there's about a 6mm wide gap between the rear and the sides that will need to be faired in with card and filler.

I also stuck the gun barrel into the chuck of my 3/8" drill and "lathed" it to a round shape, using a #11 blade as a tool. This took care of the seams, the ovalness, and the counterweight. It was then a simple matter to drill out the end of the barrel, and I now have a passable 1:76 20 Pdr for the Mk 5.

The upper hull was cut behind the driver's hatch ... but I'm searching for pictures to see how close the angle should be to the driver's hatch.

Brews · Posted: Sun 26 Aug 2007 07:19 am Post subject:

I worked solidly on this this afternoon. Pics follow:

stuzzar · Posted: Sun 26 Aug 2007 08:56 am Post subject:

Looking forward to seeing the pictures Brews.

The 'lathing' of the barrel sounds like it could have been a bit precarious

do you have a variable speed control on the drill?

Cheers

Stu

Brews · Posted: Sun 26 Aug 2007 15:13 pm Post subject:

Yes, I've done it before, and broken barrels (Airfix Pzkw IV) and even this time, it broke just forward of the fume extractor, due to fatigue. I try to balance the pressure of the blade with a finger on the opposite side of the barrel, but it's not perfect. I might invest in a 10" metal lathe.

Brews · Posted: Sun 26 Aug 2007 16:00 pm Post subject:

That's almost the state of play ... I've done a bit since, and I'll upload the rest of the photos of the build when I have a computer that copies and pastes reliably!

Beaufighter · Posted: Sun 26 Aug 2007 18:03 pm Post subject:

Wow, there's some serious surgery going on there!

stuzzar · Posted: Mon 27 Aug 2007 06:50 am Post subject:

That is coming along nicely Brews

Cheers

Stu

Brews · Posted: Mon 27 Aug 2007 07:23 am Post subject:

Thanks. It's all I've worked on this weekend, mind you.

The turret (minus the basket and stowage bins) is just about done. I still need to add the operator's hatch and other minor details, plus the mantlet and cover. The tracks almost don't need lengthening, as it turns out. I'm pretty sure that if the new Airfix tracks are any bit more flexible than the Hellfix tracks, then you wouldn't need two sets!

I might get away without using anything other than the kit tracks if I superglue the tracks down around the idler and drive wheels, and tension them elsewhere slightly. I;ll use fine wire to stitch them together. Nothing else works with Heller tracks. Not reliably, anyway.