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PostPosted: Wed 09 Feb 2011 03:51 am 
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Anyone tried them?

I can't reccomend them higly enough after using them for the first time today! :) The extra realism and detail gained from even lightly weathering a model (in this case my RAF Recovery set) is amazing!

For anyone who is into weathering I urge you to buy and try!

Will upload a pic of my results asap...

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PostPosted: Wed 09 Feb 2011 04:03 am 
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Which weathering kit did you use, Drew?  Was it a pen or solid blocks?

I didn't realise Tamiya did them ... I know Mig Productions do!

:thumb:

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PostPosted: Wed 09 Feb 2011 04:35 am 
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I have kits A, B and C. 3 solid blocks in each kit with a little applicator brush and sponge.

I used "light sand", "mud" and "rust" on my RAF recovery set. Not only did it improve the look of the set overall for realisim but I noted that the weathering process can also hide a multitude of sins!  :P

I think Tamiya do kits from A to E but the most commonly used elements are in kits A to C. I got them off the internet for I think it was about £5 or £6 each from memory.

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PostPosted: Wed 09 Feb 2011 05:07 am 
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Thanks, Drew!  They sound great.  I'll have to check them out.  I look forward to seeing a photo when you can!

:thumb:

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PostPosted: Wed 09 Feb 2011 10:24 am 
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I've found them to be very useful for light weathering - especially the Sand and Light Mud, but the Soot one is my favourite, it gives a browny/black stain that looks spot on for gun muzzles and heavy vehicle exhausts, plus some aircraft stains.

The Snow one is probably the only one I have that hasn't found a use although it could be used for highlighting edges.

Mark


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PostPosted: Wed 09 Feb 2011 17:05 pm 
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They're OK for light weathering, but I prefer Mig Pigments  :!:

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PostPosted: Wed 09 Feb 2011 18:32 pm 
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come on drew , give us a demo , you know you want to . cheers john . :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu 10 Feb 2011 04:21 am 
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I highly, highly recommend them. I've not used them on aircraft yet (I've not finished any for a bit :oops: ) but I can't recommend them enough for AFVs. It doesn't matter if you've been building for decades or today; they're extremely easy to use and they give immediate results. I hate to sound like a shill, but Tamiya's article on them really helps out:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/featu ... cle-id=133

The snow in Weathering Master B is good for hasty white-wash camo like you'd see on some German and Soviet tanks, and definitely for high-lighting edges. I dunno how well it'd serve as simulating actual snow though, or as white-wash camo for M4 Shermans. Just follow the general rule of not overdoing it when it comes to weathering, since if you use this stuff to weather subtly it really pays off.


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PostPosted: Thu 10 Feb 2011 15:40 pm 
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Well here it is... my first attempt ever at some "light" weathering on the crane from my RAF Recovery kit. I used some "light sand" first of all and gave it a dusting with that, then added some "rust" to the various joints and rivets and then finished off with a smidgen of "mud" applied to the wheels.

Not bad for a first attempt but I'm sure with experience it'll get better. Plus this is only a 1/72 model and I'm sure on bigger scale builds it's easier to make the weathering a bit more realistic.

<a href="http://s379.photobucket.com/albums/oo233/ApertureStudio/?action=view¤t=IMG_0007-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo233/ApertureStudio/IMG_0007-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s379.photobucket.com/albums/oo233/ApertureStudio/?action=view¤t=IMG_0004-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo233/ApertureStudio/IMG_0004-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

P.S. Excuse the dodgy drivers side door. It didn't fit right during the build and I then decided to leave it slightly ajar to look like either the driver was just getting out or had just got in. I glued it so that it was more open than it looks in the pic but when doing the weathering I accidentally knocked it and it's kind of hanging on by a thread now  :oops: Will be fixed soon and put back to the open state as when fully closed it just sits out too much and looks odd when the door on the other side is flush.

This is also only the 2nd model I've ever completed!

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PostPosted: Thu 10 Feb 2011 15:47 pm 
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Top tip by the way for anyone interested... you can make glass for the windows of your vehicle or whatever by taking a sheet of acetate and cutting out little bits to fit the shape of the window frames and then use some "Clearfix" or equivelent brands to fix them in place  :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu 10 Feb 2011 16:02 pm 
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Good stuff Drew , i'll need to give the 'clearfix' a go on telephone boxes that need glazing on my railway layout . cheers john .


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PostPosted: Thu 10 Feb 2011 16:40 pm 
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dockyard matey:298748 wrote:
Good stuff Drew , i'll need to give the 'clearfix' a go on telephone boxes that need glazing on my railway layout . cheers john .


If you don't already have some you can get it on the internet (or in the shops too I assume) for around £3 per bottle. There's enough in a bottle to last a while even with regular use but it's only really for gluing clear plastic into your builds (aircraft canopies and car headlights etc) or the acetate in this case. It's actually also useful for civil aircraft with lots of tiny windows down the sides. You just push the glue into the opening and when it's dry it dries clear like as if you had actually put a plastic window into the hole. Obviously this only works on tiny area's though.

If you do use the clearfix with acetate on the telephone boxes... just add the clearfix to the inside of the frame of the telephone box somewhat sparingly. Don't let any big blobs buildup or when you push the acetate into place it'll push the glue out the sides and when it dries on the acetate in a visible area it won't look so good.

Although if the telephone boxes you are using are of a small enough scale you could get away with the acetate and just use the clearfix on it's own like with the civil aircraft windows above.

It's better than using ordinary glue but at the same time it's not 100% designed for acetate. It was just an extra use I discovered myself  :)

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PostPosted: Thu 10 Feb 2011 18:26 pm 
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Third time trying to reply ( must be the thought of spending money . Old style boxes so the windows are small and i've plenty of clear plastic of different materials , so watch this space :shock: . cheer john .


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PostPosted: Thu 10 Feb 2011 20:25 pm 
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Ive tried both the mud pen and the powders (see my Whippet in my portfolio) and I was impressed with both products.
The mud pen was (in my humble opinion) not the cheapest product in the world, and there are probably other products out there, by as a newbie to tanks I was impressed and will use both again.

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PostPosted: Thu 10 Feb 2011 23:12 pm 
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I've seen these sets in the shop, I may have to treat myself to one

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PostPosted: Fri 11 Feb 2011 11:15 am 
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Well I've just found some on ebay so treated myself @ £5.48ea +29p P&P looks like a good price considering some retails selling them form closer to £7 with £3 postage.....

I'm hoping they will be good for my rally car set and my W&G anti-pesto van

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PostPosted: Fri 11 Feb 2011 11:20 am 
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I use the snow for centre of exhaust streaking on aircraft, after applying the soot and rust first;

e.g.

Image

I find them very useful. I use cotton buds for application to avoid mixing the colours.

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PostPosted: Fri 11 Feb 2011 11:26 am 
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Birderman:299007 wrote:
Well I've just found some on ebay so treated myself @ £5.48ea +29p P&P looks like a good price considering some retails selling them form closer to £7 with £3 postage.....

I'm hoping they will be good for my rally car set and my W&G anti-pesto van


The 'rust' will certainly make the W&G van look real !  :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri 11 Feb 2011 11:36 am 
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I ordered a set earlier this week, so I'll look forward to trying it, seems as if it was a good decision to try!


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PostPosted: Fri 11 Feb 2011 13:16 pm 
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Baggy , do'nt think i've heard of a 'mud stick' .
Rich ,  what aircraft is that , not far of a 'mosquito' . Cheers john .


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