Airfix Logo

Humbrol Logo

The Airfix Tribute Forum was established in April 2006 to discuss the making of Airfix models.

Email: admin at airfixtributeforum.co.uk

It is currently Fri 22 Sep 2017 07:24 am

All times are UTC [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 36 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue 09 Apr 2013 00:49 am 
Offline
Yellow Star
Yellow Star

Joined: Sat 06 Apr 2013 22:19 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Reading, UK
: --------------------
Hi,

Does anyone know any tips for painting a straight line while going around the curve of an aeroplane?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue 09 Apr 2013 01:55 am 
Offline
Two Gold & Bronze Stars
Two Gold & Bronze Stars
User avatar

Joined: Thu 13 Dec 2007 02:47 am
Posts: 6794
Location: Minnesota, USA
: Model Portfolio
Here's how to paint a straight line on any surface, without masking. You "connect the dots." Put a dot of paint at the top, bottom and middle of the fuselage. Then put dots between those dots. Then put dots between THOSE dots. Each time, you put a dot between the existing dots. At some point, it will become very easy to just connect the dots. And there you have it--a straight line. All you need to do is touch up the edges to make it a clean, straight line.

_________________
“Build what YOU want, the way YOU want to, and above all, have fun.”
- Al Superczynski (1947 - 2007)

dancho's model collection dancho's blog


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue 09 Apr 2013 08:48 am 
Offline
Site Owner
User avatar

Joined: Sat 22 Apr 2006 07:32 am
Posts: 61960
Location: Northampton UK
: Site Owner
: Administrator
: Group Build Guru
: Group Build Leader
: Model Portfolio
Another way is to use masking tape :geek: The stuff available at DIY stores is generally unreliable, too sticky (pulls paint off) and yet allows bleed under the edge :evil: Tamiya tape is more expensive, but its worth it in the end :thumb:

_________________
Living the dream
My Portfolio
My current Workbench


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue 09 Apr 2013 09:53 am 
Offline
Silver Star
Silver Star
User avatar

Joined: Thu 25 Feb 2010 15:48 pm
Posts: 1370
Location: Enfield
Tamiya tape is definitely the way to go; it comes in a variety of widths to meet every need and is worth every penny

_________________
I am the cat of cats, the everlasting cat, cunning and old and sleek as jam


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue 09 Apr 2013 10:25 am 
Offline
Gold & Silver Stars
Gold & Silver Stars
User avatar

Joined: Mon 01 Nov 2010 02:06 am
Posts: 4026
Location: Skelmersdale
: Model Portfolio
I also cut Tamiya tape into thin strips using a scalpel and a metal rule with the tape laid straight on a cutting mat, as its easier to "bend" the tape without getting large creases under it which will allow the paint to bleed under it.

Often a good idea to give the edge of the tape a light coating of klear as if bleeding is going to occur the Klear will prevent most if not all of it.

Like Dancho's suggestion, going to give it a try sometime. :thumb:

Anyways up, good luck

_________________
John.
Kate "So what did Ducky look like when he was younger"
Gibbs "A bit like Illya Kuyakin"
IPMS member 13348. Airfix club IRWI54B955E
Portfolio W.I.P.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Masking wheel centres
PostPosted: Sat 22 Nov 2014 22:34 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu 29 May 2014 23:09 pm
Posts: 4
: --------------------
Hi all, I'm just returning to modelling after a 35 year break. One thing I am struggling with is wheel centres and getting clean round edges. Any advice or could you point me to a thread that covers this topic?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat 22 Nov 2014 22:36 pm 
Offline
Green Star
Green Star

Joined: Wed 08 Oct 2014 23:27 pm
Posts: 117
Location: Alloa, Clackmannanshire
: --------------------
I find painting the hub first and then using heavily thinned down black to capillary into the edge of the hub gives me a nice clean look, just paint up to the black wash and your sorted!

_________________
"I would love to darling, but I seem to have super-glued my hands to the workbench."

My Portfolio
My Workbench


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat 22 Nov 2014 22:43 pm 
Offline
Green Star
Green Star

Joined: Wed 08 Oct 2014 23:27 pm
Posts: 117
Location: Alloa, Clackmannanshire
: --------------------
Give me a few mins and I'll take a few pictures of the process :-)

_________________
"I would love to darling, but I seem to have super-glued my hands to the workbench."

My Portfolio
My Workbench


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat 22 Nov 2014 22:54 pm 
Offline
Bronze Star
Bronze Star
User avatar

Joined: Tue 11 Dec 2012 20:39 pm
Posts: 956
Location: SW France
The capillary method works fine if the hub is well-defined (as in most modern kits or after-market resin), but if you are faced with an older moulding where the wheel is more of a 'blob', try painting the tyre first, well over where you think the hub should start, then spray the hub colour through the appropriate hole of a circle drawing template (now available in the stationery aisle of most supermarkets - over here the best time to get them is during the 'rentree' or return from summer hols, when French schoolkids stock up on their scribbling and drawing supplies for the coming year, and every shop has massive displays of useful things like Snopake and Blutack). Just don't forget to mask over unwanted sizes of circle, or you get an impressive (but unwanted) hologram effect - but please don't ask me how I know this ...

_________________
Just Another Plastic Hacker
View my workbench (D3C2) here


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat 22 Nov 2014 23:18 pm 
Offline
Green Star
Green Star

Joined: Wed 08 Oct 2014 23:27 pm
Posts: 117
Location: Alloa, Clackmannanshire
: --------------------
Ok so here is a couple of F18 Hornet mainwheels already with the white hubs. I have thinned down some HU33 Enamel with Humbrol enamel thinners into a wash consistency (think well stewed tea). Take a nice fine point brush and touch the wheel just at the edge of the hub. Capiliary action should pull the paint/wash around the hub giving a nice clean line.
Image

Once this is dry just paint up to the black line as per usual. (make sure the previous step has dried and just be careful not to over thin your paint or you run the risk of over flowing into the hub as you can see i have done *oopsie >.<)
Image

_________________
"I would love to darling, but I seem to have super-glued my hands to the workbench."

My Portfolio
My Workbench


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun 23 Nov 2014 05:10 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu 29 May 2014 23:09 pm
Posts: 4
: --------------------
Thanks for the great advice, look forward to trying both methods.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun 23 Nov 2014 06:23 am 
Offline
Silver Bar
Silver Bar
User avatar

Joined: Fri 18 Jun 2010 13:34 pm
Posts: 10194
Location: D'Dee, N'orn I'rn
: --------------------
: Group Build Guru
: AMSIG member
Sometimes I paint the hub first and use a paper label disc on it as a mask then paint the tyre - if the hub is not well defined to use the above detailed method on. I got the round paper labels in Easons [a place like WH Smiths], they come is sizes from about 4mm upwards in 0.5 and 1mm steps.

_________________
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun 23 Nov 2014 10:11 am 
Offline
Silver Bar
Silver Bar
User avatar

Joined: Tue 22 Jan 2008 14:50 pm
Posts: 14698
Location: saddleworth
: --------------------
: Moderator
: Group Build Leader
: Model Portfolio
: IPMS Number
: Airfix Modelling SIG Leader
Eduard make masking sets for a lot of aircraft. They usually have masking pieces for the inner hub and tyre. An expensive way of painting the wheels but it's another option to the advice given previously.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun 23 Nov 2014 13:38 pm 
Offline
Gold & Silver Stars
Gold & Silver Stars
User avatar

Joined: Sat 21 Apr 2007 14:10 pm
Posts: 4252
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
: Model Portfolio
My way to paint wheels is as follow:

Remove the wheel from the sprue.
Clean it up with a sanding stick.
Sand a cocktail stick down to get a tight fit in the hole in the wheel.
Paint the whole wheel in the colour the hub is having.
Find a good steady resting position for your hands.

Use a small brush and good flowing paint to paint the tire as close to the hub you can while you rotate the cocktail stick. Let the rotation do the work; not the brush.

You can try it a few times before you dip in the paint to get the feel right.
Turn you cocktail stick upside down an paint the other side as well.
Finish with painting the tire itself.
Place the cocktail stick in a foam block to dry.

:idea: You can use a slow rotating drill like a Proxxon to hold the cocktail stick.

It may sound complicated but it works.
Remember you can trim the paint with a sharp #11 blade.

Jesper.

_________________
Some Say There Are Nuts On My Family Tree.

My Portfolio Update: 28/feb/2016


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun 23 Nov 2014 14:42 pm 
Offline
Site Owner
User avatar

Joined: Sat 22 Apr 2006 07:32 am
Posts: 61960
Location: Northampton UK
: Site Owner
: Administrator
: Group Build Guru
: Group Build Leader
: Model Portfolio
I always paint tyres with a brush (after the wheel centres) :wink:

_________________
Living the dream
My Portfolio
My current Workbench


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun 23 Nov 2014 14:53 pm 
Offline
Gold & Silver Stars
Gold & Silver Stars
User avatar

Joined: Wed 11 Nov 2009 19:24 pm
Posts: 4529
Location: Chelmsford
fred wrote:
I got the round paper labels in Easons [a place like WH Smiths], they come is sizes from about 4mm upwards in 0.5 and 1mm steps.

That's a great tip Fred. Normally I use the thinned paint/wash method, but I would prefer to spray wheels and although I have a circle template I'd prefer to use a paper mask.

peebeep

_________________
peebeep aka Paul Brown
IPMS Locate and Cement website
http://www.locate-and-cement.com
RevellAtions
Bring me my chariot of fire


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Tips on Masking
PostPosted: Fri 19 Dec 2014 09:53 am 
Offline
Green Star
Green Star

Joined: Wed 03 Sep 2014 11:13 am
Posts: 201
Location: Cumbria
: --------------------
Help!

I'm building a 1/144 Revell Space Shuttle and the painting requires a different colour nose cone - which isn't a separate part. How do I mask this? It seems to be impossible to do this to achieve a smooth circular edge!!

I've tried using smaller pieces of tape but this just gets me lots of straight edges rather than an actual circle. Using a longer strip of tape means you get wrinkles - where paint will get through.

There must a technique or method for this - or is it a case of trial and error?

Regarding masking in general, this is the first time I've done it, and its gone OK but generally I've been slightly disappointed at the amount of touch ups required - How do I combat this? I've placed the tape carefully and burnished down the edge with a cocktail stick to get a good adhesion, but its surprising how much paint seems to get through? i also tended to brush away from the edge of the tape as well.

Thanks in advance.

_________________
My Portfolio
My Work in Progress


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri 19 Dec 2014 09:57 am 
Offline
Silver Star
Silver Star

Joined: Thu 27 Oct 2011 18:04 pm
Posts: 1684
Location: North West England
After burnishing the tape down you can either give the tape and nose cone a coat of Klear to seal the edge or give it a coat of the base colour so that any paint creep is of the same colour as the masked off bit so is less visible.

_________________
Buy less, start less, finish more - or at the moment just try to finish at least one!
IPMS 13440
My WIP My Portfolio


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri 19 Dec 2014 10:02 am 
Offline
Green Star
Green Star

Joined: Wed 03 Sep 2014 11:13 am
Posts: 201
Location: Cumbria
: --------------------
Good ideas! Thanks!

Maybe a daft question, but just to check, its not a problem to paint over the Clear with either acrylic or enamel paints?

_________________
My Portfolio
My Work in Progress


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri 19 Dec 2014 10:23 am 
Offline
Silver Star
Silver Star

Joined: Thu 27 Oct 2011 18:04 pm
Posts: 1684
Location: North West England
Should be OK as long as you let the Klear cure for a few hours. As you are brush painting and my experience if based on using an airbrush, it may be best to test on some scrap plastic first, though more experienced 'hairy stick' gurus will probably know and respond with advice.

_________________
Buy less, start less, finish more - or at the moment just try to finish at least one!
IPMS 13440
My WIP My Portfolio


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 36 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group

The Airfix Tribute Forum

The Airfix Tribute Forum - Est. 2006 | Make a Donation


modelsforsale.com