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PostPosted: Sun 05 Apr 2015 17:20 pm 
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I've finished a few models that haven't required any camo paint jobs yet. Now just started a German King Tiger and don't even know where to start off trying to get a decent camo spray paint job. Been looking at a lot of pics of finished King Tigers and the paint jobs are amazing. What are your tips and tricks for getting a decent camo paint job?

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PostPosted: Sun 05 Apr 2015 17:36 pm 
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I presume you're looking for AFV camo advice and have added that to your thread title :idea:
If you're asking for advice specifically on German WW2 armour, then the thing to remember is that most of it was applied in the field. They'd use paint brushes, sweeping brushes, even rags to apply the camo (anything they had to hand really) :roll:
Image
This would be daubed on randomly :twisted: I used cotton buds to apply the camo to this 1/35 Panzer IV :wink:

If they were lucky their tank had a compressor and they had a spray gun :pray:
Image
1/72 Panzer IV with airbrush applied camo :wink:

Ambush camo can be trickier :nailbite:
Image
The little dots are best done with a brush :wink:

As with most modelling, look for references :idea:

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PostPosted: Sun 05 Apr 2015 17:40 pm 
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Late-war German camo also included hard-edged patterns - applied by spray at factory, but spraying is not necessary for models. The most important thing is a smooth finish prior to weathering - so your washes don't emphasise brush marks and hairs.

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PostPosted: Sun 05 Apr 2015 20:23 pm 
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Thanks Ratch. My post was more of a how to do camouflage in general.

Great looking paint jobs there!

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PostPosted: Mon 06 Apr 2015 00:08 am 
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That's a very broad subject :shock:
I have taken the AFV bit out of the title again :smt024:

What exactly do you want to know :scratch:

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PostPosted: Mon 06 Apr 2015 12:10 pm 
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I personally tend to paint vehicle and aircraft camo with the lighter colour first. Aircraft overall brown then green over, brown over the vehicle then MM camo over. Light colour after the darker of the two colours tends to darken the lighter colour.
As Ratch stated, research to specify details of your chosen subject(s)

Hope this helps
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PostPosted: Mon 06 Apr 2015 12:36 pm 
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Lincolnlanc wrote:
I personally tend to paint vehicle and aircraft camo with the lighter colour first.

That's a standard painting method Ian, I was taught that at Art School (if not before) :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon 06 Apr 2015 17:46 pm 
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Great - I'll give that a try. Also busy researching the colour schemes.

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PostPosted: Thu 25 Jun 2015 08:23 am 
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I use Blutac rolled in to thin sausages to mask the edges of soft-edged camouflage patterns. Spray close to perpendicular to the surface and you'll get a well scaled "free hand" feathered edge.


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PostPosted: Sat 17 Oct 2015 09:07 am 
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A friend of mine made very successful soft demarcations between the 2 or more colours through mixing the 2 adjacent colors in equal parts and using a stiff brush to dry brush over the two basic colors--brush had a a straight cut edge, small and flat. The result looked airbrushed, though it was not.
For example, if he had dark green and grey for the overs camo colours, say in an RAF Hawk jet, he painted them on and let them dry for 24 hours or more. Then he mixed equal parts of the two shades to get a third shade between the two and dru brushed with stiff brush over the speration line. The dry brushing has to be with the brush quite dry and is done in repeated passes with pressure over the same line, allowing some time for each pass to dry.
He used the same procedure for all schemes--e.g. light gull gray and white for hi-vis USN jets. Or barley grey amd mid-grey for low vis RAF LIGHTNING jets... I have tried it even on tanks and it works like a charm.


Last edited by jinx46 on Sun 18 Oct 2015 14:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun 18 Oct 2015 09:04 am 
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You don't even have to mix the colours just use one and do on the other. Tried it and it works but usually I don't go to doing such as I'm not that obsessed with soft demarcations.
Another way would be painting wet in wet; ie. before the one colour dries paint the other one into it. Haven't tried it but found the method in an ooold modellers advice in an aircraft magazine.

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PostPosted: Mon 16 May 2016 13:38 pm 
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Being dissatisfied with my brush painting camo wanting doing that without brushmarks due to too much paint in a go. Using just a few coats I tried this airbrush method which worked for me; scan the instructions camo scheme - adjust for size (found copying the picture into a text/word document the easier as it will print as size and not adjust to fit the paper - and then you could just get another printer with the requisite software but I'm mulling along with what I've got :joker: ) - print and cut. Paint from the paper onto the subject making a nice demarcation without brushmarks or ridges.
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PostPosted: Tue 17 May 2016 07:51 am 
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I've recently started using patafix for camoing. It yielded far better results than i've expected. :roll:


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PostPosted: Tue 17 May 2016 11:39 am 
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This stuff? http://www.uhu.com/en/products/glue-pads.html

Is it just a white, Uhu equivalent of Blu-tac?

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PostPosted: Tue 17 May 2016 11:39 am 
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What is patafix :scratch:

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PostPosted: Tue 17 May 2016 12:01 pm 
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We must have posted at the same time Ratch - see post above.

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PostPosted: Tue 17 May 2016 12:04 pm 
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Ah yes, Blu-Tac it is. Patafix is the name of Blu-Tac, under which they are being sold in Turkey :)


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PostPosted: Tue 17 May 2016 18:51 pm 
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Thanks Adrian :cheers:

I don't mask, I screw my airbrush down to a tight pattern and draw the RAF A or B scheme freehand then fill in :wink:
Image

Same with some Luftwaffe schemes :arrow:
Image

For a hard and/or straight edge masking is necessary
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PostPosted: Tue 17 May 2016 23:05 pm 
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Here's my way of painting german soft edge camouflage with a brush on small scales like 1/76 and 1/72.

Basecoat yellow with first layer of drybrushed green:
Image

Repeating the drybrushing over the green and later the brown gives this result:
Image

After decals, a coat of flat clear acrylic and some washes, it looks like this:
Image

So basically, it involves a lot of drybrushing. Not difficult but it takes a lot of time and destroys brushes so I would not really recommend this on large scales like 1/35.

Another soft edge example:
Image

A tip for achieving some more depth in the camouflage colours is to drybrush the centers of the patches with a lighter shade of the same colour. As can be seen on this model.
Image

The final result after decals, flat coat and weathering:
Image

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PostPosted: Wed 18 May 2016 09:42 am 
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ejk wrote:
A tip for achieving some more depth in the camouflage colours is to drybrush the centers of the patches with a lighter shade of the same colour. As can be seen on this model.
I've seen that technique before and it really does look good, but never tried it myself. Do you just lighten the original colour by mixing, or use a different shade?

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