Help building ships

Jamesy · Help building ships

Calling all floaty people...

I have just bought Revell's 1/1200 Queen Mary 2 to practice some techniques for their GTS Finnjet. Is there anything special I need to know in terms of techniques with building/painting/weathering etc.?

Digs

Depends on what you want to achieve Jamesy, like any kit really. My own bias is that ship kits (a) do better with more painting of parts before assembly, (b) get proportionally more benefit from photoetch and (c) need weathering less than (say) AFVs or aeroplanes.

That's only my opinion though and (for instance) the hugely talented shipbuilder Orionv (Remy) disagrees over the weathering, especially as he builds waterline models set in seascapes. And photoetch probably isn't on for a 1/1200 model anyway.

So not much help then! Have a look through some of the ship GBs and decide what looks like it'll work for you? E.g.:

http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/forum168.php

http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/forum191.php

Paul

jhl1908

Remember if you try to make a real looking rust speck or weathering, how small it will be divided by 1200!
And the paintwork would not look so shiny as you might imagine.

- Jesper.

Bernd B.

For ships like the Queen Mary 2 or the Finnjet, go for a near-factory (or "maiden voyage") finish and keep weathering to a very light wash. Rust? Not really ...

As Jesper said - no shiny paints though, I'd go for a matt or, if you prefer, silk effect. But clear, definite colours and the details just about brought out by an unobtrusive wash.

As to the building process: Check the hull sides and deck for "straightness" and do several dry-runs before committing to glue. Then aim for the most sold basic build of those main components - I like to clamp/tape the hull sides and main deck together and then use liquid glue with a lot of capillary effect. If your pre-assembly was accompanied by a lot of bending and "friendly persuasion" (Soprano-type) it night be a good idea to use two-part epoxy in the inside joins.

Upper decks and details are usually not much of a problem then.

Just be aware that somehow ship modelling is cursed with "representative" blobs of plastic that have the same numbers as the kit parts they are meant to be. So instead of a crisply details crane you'll maybe get something that would loom like a mock-up crane after some detailing, careful painting and in the dark ... but it does the job from two feet away. But don't look too closely at those solid railings!

As Digs said - if you want to add PE, it will completely transform your model. Problem: Once you start you'll not be able to stop, more than likely.

Rigid

My own go at scratchbuilding was a success, not an unqualified success but there you go!

I wish i had had a copy of the plans for the Atlantic Conveyor rather than guessing at the heights and lengths etc.
Trying to estimate how the hull curved was impossible. I would next time (Type 42) use more cross deck struts to help shape the hull sides.
I used plasticard of various thicknesses for sides and decks etc, the thinnest would have been best.

Adding photoetch improved the look of the model 200%, despite my novice attempts at using it.

Good luck.
Just try it.

Jamesy

Hi guys...

Thanks for all your replies, they have been really helpful. Now, just one more question... The Revell instructions for my 1/1200 QM2 suggest 'painting' the cabin windows all along the side with a pencil or similar, and give colouyr callouts for them. Problem is, they are way too small even for my reasonably steady hand. Is there any other way I could colour them without making a complete hash of it?

Bernd B.

Method a:
Application of paint by toothpick or needle. Strictly for masochists. Stick the needle in your eyeball for a quicker kick.

Method b:
A thin wash of black-blue, grey or medium blue that gathers in the indentions, wipe off excess immediately. Helps to coat the model first with gloss varnish or Kleer. Touch up any unwanted dark spots later, or if the effect is "just right" go for a bit of highlighting by drybrushing.

Method c:
Drill all portholes out and glaze. A long sojourn at Broadmoor awaits you.

Spudgun

Method D:
Pop down to your local art shop and buy a couple of Staedtler Pigment Liner pens.

I've got a couple. One is .1, the other is .05. They're just the ticket for highlighting panel lines. I have used them on ship portholes and they make the job an absolute breeze.

Jamesy

OK, thanks Bernd.B and Spudgun, there's some really useful tips there (although I might save the drilling and glazing for a rainy day!)

Rigid

I've bought pigment liner pens but found the colour ran when the ink subsequently got wet.
This happened to both my Staedtler pigment liner 0.05 and a Snowman pigment 0.1.
Am i doing something wrong?

Much happier with the Staedtler Lumocolor permanent 0.4 and a Faber-Castell multimark permanent S.

Spudgun

In what circumstances is you liner ink getting wet? I'm currently having visions of you playing with your built up kits in the bath..........

Before anyone asks; Yes I did this years ago.