Revell HNCS Snowberry

cliver · Revell HNCS Snowberry

Hi, sorry its not an Airfix question... but can anyone give me some advice.. (polite I hope).. who has already taken the plunge to build this rather large model I've found a part number duplicated in the instruction sheet (K34) and having used it for the propeller 'hub' am a bit stuck as it states K34 again for part of the anchor winch mechanism... can't see another K34 on the sprues. Is there another one somewhere?.. am I missing the obvious? ... are the instructions wrong and its a part on another sprue?.. or have you had to scratch build something because the correct part isn't in the box? ... also am I likely to find anymore confusions... after already having to switch around the hull stabiliser strips from what is stated in the instructions.
Lastly... I'm already a bit thin on top but will I be totally bald by the end of this kit? cheers !! and thanks for any useful advice

Sgt.Squarehead

Lots of 'Flower Modeling' information here:

http://www.cbrnp.com/RNP/Flower/

Can't help with your parts question.....Sorry!

For what it's worth, all the best
Sgt.S

KevinR

Yes you are quite correct, there are 2 locations for K34!!! unfortunately there is only one K34 in the box. Luckily I didn't use it on the shaft and so was able to place it on the winch. I have been building this kit for 5 years

on and off of course!!!
There is lots of information on the net re: Flower Class Corvettes. I am looking to start another one and so, at this rate, should have them both completed by 2014. Good luck and don't forget to enjoy!!
Best Regards
Kevin

James Russell

Dear Western Approaches community,

Long ago I wanted a Matchbox HMS Bluebell. Sadly I never made enough on my newspaper round to buy one.

Years later, in the late 1980s, I could afford a Revell USS Saussy. The Revell instructions only covered Snowberry and Saussy though.

Where might I find the Bluebell specific instructions? Bluebell had a much more active war after all.

Seems a strange choice - to reduce the flexibility of a kit like this - are all three ships covered in the current Revell Snowberry iteration of the kit?

Thanks in advance for any directions.

Paddy O'Irishman

If my worn out memory serves me correctly, the Revell kit is actually the old Matchbox kit, so it should be no problem to build her as Bluebell. Have a look on the "modelwarship.com" website and go to the "Calling All Ship Fans" section, Flower Class Corvette's, you should be able to get some good help there.

James Russell

Thanks Paddy,

The modelwarships site is very interesting!

The Matchbox kit of the Flower corvette was picked up by Revell when Matchbox went under - they are the same kit.

Matchbox boxed it as Bluebell - but the instructions allowed for making alternatives USS Saussy and HMCS Snowberry.

Revell first boxed it as Saussy - but the instructions allowed only the alternative of HMCS Snowberry.

Revell then boxed it as HMCS Snowberry - as to what these instructions offer as alternatives I don't know.

It is probably true that I can do some research and come up with the necessary alterations to make Bluebell - I was hoping to see what the manufacturer's instructions intended.

cliver

cliver · Lower Hull colour for HMCS Snowberry

Hi, another non Airfix question I'm afraid and again its the Revell Snowberry !
I'm about to paint the lower hull but although the instructions state 'Revell 9, anthracite grey matt', most of the refs for modelling show the Flowers with a red lower hull...something like either Humbrol 70 or 73. Anyone advise as to whether black or red is correct? .. or whether both colours are authentic for the period and Snowberry can be painted in either.
Many thanks for any replies... its such a big paint job and I want to get it as right as possible, cheers Cliver

cliver · HMCS Snowberry

Posted: Sun 24 May 2009 22:49 pm Post subject: Lower Hull colour for HMCS Snowberry

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Hi, another non Airfix question I'm afraid and again its the Revell Snowberry !
I'm about to paint the lower hull but although the instructions state 'Revell 9, anthracite grey matt', most of the refs for modelling show the Flowers with a red lower hull...something like either Humbrol 70 or 73. Anyone advise as to whether black or red is correct? .. or whether both colours are authentic for the period and Snowberry can be painted in either.
Many thanks for any replies... its such a big paint job and I want to get it as right as possible, cheers Cliver

Ratch

Rather than have lots of threads all on the same subject

I've merged them into one

Please be patient for an answer, the person who knows it may be along soon

Paddy O'Irishman

Most (but not all) wartime Corvette's had a red lower hull, Humbrol M73/Revell M37 would be a close enough colour. Where the confusion comes in is due to some Corvette's had a black/extremely dark grey waterline. other's did not. Because the Corvette's were not as well documented as other warship type's, particularly regarding colour scheme's there is no real hard and fast rule as such regarding lower hull and waterline colour, plus warships of all types were constantly changing/updating there colour schemes during the war so you would have to concentrate your research on the particular ship your are building, the time period, location etc and see what photo's you can find of the ship as photo's are obviously far more acurate than data or records. If you cant find what you need then you will have to apply a little artistic licence and do what you feel is right for your particular model. Ultimately, it's your model and if it looks good to you, then thats what matters the most. Isn't it a pity that Digital camera's weren't around during WW2, can you imagine the photo's we would have available now, would certainly take the quesswork out of questions regarding colour schemes etc.

cliver

cheers thanks a lot for replies.. I'm opting for the red hull (H73), with dark grey waterline as I feel that looks more appropriate. As you say, without access to colour 'dry dock' photos the actual sheme for the lower hull remains something of a mystery so I'll go with what I think befits a tribute to the the hardy Corvettes.
much appreciate your help.

BAGGY

I have a Matchbox Corvette in my "to-do-one-day" pile.
I keep thinking about adding a motor and RC gear (something I have never ventured into).

Has anyone on here built one up (either static or RC) and if so, has anyone posted pics yet?

Paddy O'Irishman

Hi Baggy, have a look here,,,,,

http://www.google.com/search?ie=U...p;sitesearch=modelshipgallery.com

Paddy O'Irishman

Also, if you want to super detail and accurise the kit, check out this site,,,,,,

http://www.cbrnp.com/RNP/Flower/contents.htm

and for general info regarding Corvette's, have a look here,,,,

http://theflowerclasscorvetteforums.yuku.com/directory

T16S

Like many I have one of these unbuilt in the loft- I wanted to build it with RC and joined the hull sections together with a prop shaft installed and a brass propeller but then gave up. I couldn't see how to build it and also get at the gubins within the hull easily.
Anyone out there know how best to do this?
cheers Stuart

Paddy O'Irishman

Hi Stuart, it's a lot easier than it appears. The beauty of this model is that is has access openings already provided in the main and rear deck, where the main superstructure and engine room housings fit. When you build the superstructure etc, DO NOT glue them to the deck, instead build up the lip on the deck where the superstructure fits so that you form a raised wall or sleeve that fits snugly into the superstructure so that you can simply drop the superstructure onto the sleeve and it will hold it all in place nicely and allow instant removal for access to the gubbings. A very quick run down of how to proceed is as follows, ,,
Fit the rudder tube to the hull and make the tube as high as possible so that water wont get in to the hull, fill the tube with vasaline or plumbers grease , put your finger lightly on the top and them push the rudder rod into the tube, allowing any excess grease to escape under your finger, this will ensure the rudder tube is fully waterproof and permanently lubricated, do the same with the prop shaft and tube, ie, pack with grease. Next attatch the rudder linkage to the top of the rudder shaft and secure with a screw, and then put a drop of solder on the screw so that it doesn't work loose. Attatch a brass rod to the rudder linkage and bend it over so that it can not fall out, make this rod long enough to roughly reach the center of the model, about 16 inches should do. Next, select a rechargable battery (such as a Yeasu Gell Cell) that will fit through the opening under the engine room assembly. Now place the hull in a bath full of water and position the battery in such a way that the hull sits as level in the water as possible, whilst still being able to get hold of it through the deck opening. Mark the position and then make up a box for the battery to sit in so that it doesn't move around. With the prop and motor, ideally you want the prop shaft as short as possible, (to reduce drag on the motor) but again still be accesible thru the hull opening. Superglue or epoxy resin a piece of balsa wood, about 10mm thick, to the bottom of the hull to act as a motor mounting board. When attatching the motor, place some thin strips of rubber between the motor mounting plate and the balsa board to absorb vibration, this will also reduce motor noise. When fitting the R/C transceiver, place it as far forward as you can to reduce any interfearence from the motor, same with the speed controller. Run the R/C ariel cable in a loop all around the top edge of the hull and any excess should be brought thru the hull and up into the superstructure, this will give you a good transmision range. The only repetative task with an R/C model is charging the battery, so to save having to remove the battery everytime, use two piggyback connecters on the battery terminals with about 5 or 6 inches of insulated cable on them, and fit connecters to the free ends, compatable with the charger connecters, that way you only have to connect the charger to the free cable's rather than having to remove the battery from the model. When all the "gubbings" have been fitted, build the rest of the model, but dont glue the decks in place yet, assemble the model, put it back in the bath, and add ballast weight as neccesary to set the trim, ie, get it level in the water up to the waterline. Once your happy with the trim, permanently attatch the ballast, glue the decks in place and go sail your boat. A couple of tips to ensure happy sailing, fill every inch of space in the hull, and superstructure, with expanded polysterene foam sheeting, so that if the worst happens, the model will not sink. With ballast, the lower down in the hull, the more capsize-proof the model will be, but it's motion will be very unrealistic and twitchy, if you mount the ballast high in the hull, and divide it roughly equall between port and starboard, bow and stern, you will get a far more realistic motion from the model when sailing it. When all is ready, give the entire model a couple of good coats of satin varnish, this will protect the paintwork and make it easier to clean, dont use matt varnish as it's a pig to clean, and, contrary to popular belief, real warships are NOT painted with matt paint, it's weathering, salt spray etc that makes them look matt. They actually use a satin/soft sheen type paint as it is far more weatherproof and a lot easier to clean, next time your close up to a warship, have a look and you'll see, anyway, hope this gives you some insight into how to go about it, feel free to ask if you want any more info etc, enjoy your model, best wishes, Aidan.

BAGGY

Just checked out the links that Paddy O'Irishman posted, blimey!
Dont know if that has inspired my or scared the living daylights out of me!!!
fantastic builds and well worth a look, thanks Paddy

Paddy O'Irishman

Your welcome Baggy, glad you liked them. You can call me Aidan (thats my name), the "Paddy O'Irishman" is just a bit of fun, but it's amazing how many people think it's a real name, I actually got a letter from someone and it was addressed to Paddy O'Irishman, gave the postman a good laugh.

BAGGY

Cheers Aiden,
Baggy isn't my real name either

(its Martin, but been Baggy all my life and kinda used to now!)

T16S

Hi Paddy,
thanks for the info- I might just get the beast out of the loft and dust it down!
cheers Stuart