Jamesy
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Rust streaks/stainsHow can I replicate rust streaks, like the ones found on heavily worn U-Boats around the water drainage hole thingys? (sorry about the lack of a technical term, I'm not usually a boaty kind of person)
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walrus
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Check out Remy's Orionv) builds-wowza!
not sure how the master does it but one way would be to dampen the area and put a wash on the streak so the paint will diffuse. obviously it would be a narrow band for the initial process.
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feanor
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Ayup Jamesy..
How about a Treadhead tip..
Put a small blob of paint where you want it and add thinner to it until it runs. control the 'run' until you get the effect you want... on tanks it's called spot washing...
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Sgt.Squarehead
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You can use heavily thinned oil paint to stain the underlying paintwork, repeating the process to build up convincing streaks.....This is a tricky and time consuming process, as it takes quite a while for each sessions work to dry to a point where the next one won't lift it. 
HTH & All the best
Sgt.S
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Ratch
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For this 
I did the normal paint job, sealed with Gloss Cote, decals then Matt Cote, then white spirit was streaked down the area where I wanted the stain and Burnt Umber oil paint touched at the top of the streak The previously applied white spirit acts like a capiliary, drawing the umber down the side 
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walrus
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Thanks Ratch that what i was TRYING to say
but i reckon that AND the blob like Fea said could work together.
but like Sarge said be careful of lifting off with subsequent layers
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Jamesy
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thanks all, really helpful. Looking forward to my Revell U-Boat now!
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Ratch
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| walrus wrote: | | the blob like Fea |
Fancy calling Fea blob-like 
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T16S
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Ahhaaa! so that's how to do it- nice one Ratch!
cheers Stuart 
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FrankS
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If youīre just beginning to use the technique, you might like to try ordinary watercolours first. They are more forgiving and easier to remove or correct.
Use distilled water and mix very thin; then carefully apply using a very small paintbrush in the desired direction. I use varying mixtures of rust red and black.
Any excess may be removed using a q-tip.
If you donīt like the effect once the stuff is dry, you can make corrections using a damp q-tip, or you can use a glass fibre pen to blend things in more nicely.
Another approach is the use of artistīs pastel chalks. They are available in lots of shades at artistīs supply shops. I use a piece of rather coarse sandpaper as my palette, sanding some quantities of the desired shades directly on the sandpaper. From there, I take a brush reserved for that use and apply the pastels to the model. Thatīll need a flat surface, BTW. Again, the glass fibre pen is helpful in blending the effect.
Artistsīs oils are great, as decribed above, but not that easily corrected.
On the whole, my advice is to have fun trying these techniques, but also to apply the weathering in a good degree of moderation, and based on the study of reference images. Itīs easy to end up with a cool-looking yet way overdone model.
Especially many of the submarine models you see are over-weathered, if you compare them to the real thing. Standing back from time to time, even taking photos and looking at them, is a good idea to end up with a credible job.
HTH
Frank
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daniel7891
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I have used heavily thinned paint on a glossy surface and then add more thinner to get it to run
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Sailorman
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I wouldn't overdo it. When you look at a 20 inch 1:600 model ship from 2 feet away it is like looking at the 1000 foot real ship from 1200 feet away. ie the length of 4 football pitches ........ from that distance you would be hard pressed to see rust streaks unless the ship was a real rustbucket ......
Of course if your model is to 1:72 then it is a totally different matter.
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FrankS
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Very true!
What complicates things even more is the discrepancy between viewing the model with your naked eye (or with glasses) - and what you see in closeup images. The latter tend to be pretty unflattering ...
Duly humbled
Frank
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