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Glen3312's Hurricane
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walrus









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PostPosted: Sun 18 Jan 2009 02:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Glenn

it depends! that helps doesn't it!

personally i don't like adding white to the base colour, eg dark earth Hu29, dark green Hu116(?)

i would go for a paler shade of the colour, so maybe some thing like Hu 93/94 over the dark brown, and a similarly lighter shade for the green (but within the same range of green- if you see what i mean. ie if the green is a blue part of the green spectrum then use a lighter green that has a similarly blue hue)

that should work for light weathering- and obviosly you will need to judge that yourself, on the overall finish you are aiming for.  If i were doing a more heavily weathered finish i still wouldn't use the base colour with white, but choose something lighter.  preeferably as before but lighter, but you may get away with a final dry brush of a pale grey.

if in doubt err on the side of caution- less is more and all that.

hope that makes some sense and helps. sorry if it sounds convoluted or just weird.  i usually do it intuitively.  that way i don't have to think about it too much Airhead

edit:  i tend to mix up a suitable colour using acryilcs either humbrol or warhammer, and mix them as i go along.  wouldn't recommend tamiya acrylics for dry brushing as a general rule as they have a thinner conistency.
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glen3312









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PostPosted: Sun 18 Jan 2009 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks walrus, that is a great help Cheers!
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ME163









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PostPosted: Sun 18 Jan 2009 15:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glen that is amazing and is a real tribute to the model. I got an older boxing of the hurricane and I hope to do well at the job of building it.
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glen3312









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PostPosted: Sun 18 Jan 2009 18:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks me163 much appreciated, the problem ive now got is the gap around the lens/light covers on the leading wing edge, i think im going to try filling with milliput but a bit worried im going to ruin the clarity of the clear covers, oh well these things are sent to try us   , was hoping to get this finished this weekend but it looks like its going to carry on for a couple more weeks now.  
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walrus









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PostPosted: Sun 18 Jan 2009 19:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Glenn

Quote:
the problem ive now got is the gap around the lens/light covers on the leading wing edge, i think im going to try filling with milliput but a bit worried im going to ruin the clarity of the clear covers


i have started using CA on the wing lights -before painting.

that way, the CA Can be used to fill the gaps, and the lenses sanded and polished smooth.  then masked off before painting

this way you can get the light lens to conform to the contours.  I guess you still could use CA and mask off the painted areas, sand and polish the lens then touch up the paint- rather than use milliput - which you will need to sand anyway, and as you say make the lens cloudy

HTH
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glen3312









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PostPosted: Sun 18 Jan 2009 19:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

heh walrus ive never used CA before as a filler but i can see it could be the way forward, whatever happens im still going to have mask them off and touch in around them, heres hoping!!!    
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glen3312









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PostPosted: Thu 22 Jan 2009 20:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

latest update; things seem to going one step forward and three back , ive just received my decals from MFS and already ruined one, they are really thin!!! and through constant handling the paint work is start to look a bit grubby, i might have to give the whole plane another coat.
also not to sure what to use as a "dowel" for the tail wheel when i fix it back on, was thinking about using the drill bit i used to drill the two pieces out, its the only thing i can think of that is thin and strong enough and will be a perfect fit. i have also lost one set of exhaust stubs somewhere but hoping i will find them. also can anyone recommend what to finish it in once i done all the weathering? was thinking about Hum Matt Cote but i finished Rupert in it and he still seems a bit glossy( i did give him a couple of coats of Klear first)
i am now hoping to have it finished within a fortnight and will probarley think about taking the finished pics outside like Ratch did, as they seem to look so much better in natural light, will try to get some more pics done over the weekend  
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PostPosted: Thu 22 Jan 2009 21:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have any sprue of the (roughly) right diameter  
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glen3312









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PostPosted: Thu 22 Jan 2009 21:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

now theres an idea Think i suppose once its glued up it shoud be pretty strong, ta ratch
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walrus









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PostPosted: Thu 22 Jan 2009 21:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use the Humbrol enamel - but the little tinlet which i think is a bit different from the cotte stuff?  is it an old bottle Glenn i have a feeling that matt varnish can be a bit temperamental.  

am i right in thinking there is a tamiya matting agent if you are using an airbrush?  Peebeeb has mentioned it before now, i think it is mixed 50/50 with klear- but don't quote me on that one!
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PostPosted: Thu 22 Jan 2009 21:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know what you mean about the handling too  Think  it made me realise why I normally work at a fast pace    and I kept breaking bits off  Nailbiting  
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glen3312









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PostPosted: Thu 22 Jan 2009 21:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi walrus, the one ive got is in the small glass jar, what i want is to be able get rid of the glossy Klear effect that i will get when i put the decals on
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PostPosted: Thu 22 Jan 2009 22:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can mix Tamiya XF-21 Flat Base with Klear for a matt finish.....It is potent stuff and can cause frosting, so add it a few drops at a time and do a test spray on an old kit or similar.  

HTH & All the best
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walrus









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PostPosted: Thu 22 Jan 2009 22:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
You can mix Tamiya XF-21 Flat Base with Klear for a matt finish.....It is potent stuff and can cause frosting, so add it a few drops at a time and do a test spray on an old kit or similar.


Hi Glenn
that was what i was trying to explain
for 1/24 will be a better option than brushing on Hu matt varnish

is it possible to brush it on please, Sarge?  i am wanting a matt varnish for large areas that sounds a good option
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PostPosted: Thu 22 Jan 2009 23:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes it can be applied in the normal ways.  

All the best
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Last edited by Sgt.Squarehead on Thu 22 Jan 2009 23:13 pm; edited 1 time in total
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walrus









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PostPosted: Thu 22 Jan 2009 23:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good to know- thanks Sarge
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daniel7891

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PostPosted: Fri 23 Jan 2009 07:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would go with a coat or two of matt cote rather than the tins of varnish because I have found it tends to yellow with age more than anything else
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glen3312









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PostPosted: Tue 27 Jan 2009 23:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update; underside now done and the final coat of Hum29 on, will get the last coat of Hum 30 on tomorrow and then just a couple of coats of Klear, decals,wash and a couple of coats of matt cote, sorted more pics soon
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PostPosted: Wed 28 Jan 2009 08:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking forward to seeing them
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glen3312









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PostPosted: Wed 28 Jan 2009 19:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GUTTED got the last coat of Hum 30 on this morning and  have just removed the masking tape (tamiya) from the leading wing edge and have ruined the roundel decals from the underside of the wing they had two coats of Klear and one of Matt Cote so i thought it would be ok Airhead thing is whats the best way to remove them? i have a spare set but they are smaller than the ones on the plane so i cant put them straight on top of the ruined ones. maybe i should try tamiya tape
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