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davecov

Progress of Andy's build will be reported here.

Dave
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Sgt.Squarehead · Posted: Mon 28 Apr 2008 14:19 pm Post subject:

I might be having a slight change of plan.....I may now be building the Airfix 1/76 Scammell Tank Transporter instead of the 1/72 Bf109E.

For what it's worth & all the best

Sgt.Squarehead · Posted: Wed 14 May 2008 16:30 pm Post subject:

Now that my life once more consists of something other than an exciting dialogue with 'BT Tech Support/Complaints' I am beginning to make some progress with the Scammel:

[Image Deleted]

This is quite a complex beastie in some ways so I will be taking it quite slowly. I am obliged to paint many of the subassemblies as I go along and when these are painted may be dependent on whether other builds which share the same colour-schemes are ready at the same time.

All the best

Owen · Posted: Wed 14 May 2008 21:15 pm Post subject:

Looks like a start, do it justice

The Scammel is one of my favourite kits, any plans for what will go on the trailer

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Sgt.Squarehead · Posted: Wed 14 May 2008 22:24 pm Post subject:

Yup.....Either an Airfix Matilda II or a (Two if they'll fit! Think

) JB Vickers MkVIs.

All the best

Hawk · Posted: Thu 15 May 2008 09:22 am Post subject:

JB

remember there Airfix now

Good start on the cab I found the trailer to be a bit confusing

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Sgt.Squarehead · Posted: Thu 05 Jun 2008 19:00 pm Post subject:

Much spraying of Hu29 has taken place.....I liked Stu's brown finish on his CDSW so much that I decided to swipe the idea for my Scammel. No doubt this is completely historically inauthentic.....But hey, so is Operation Sealion!

Anyway, feeling mildly wonky.....Pictures when I can focus, let alone the camera!

All the best

Sgt.Squarehead · Posted: Fri 06 Jun 2008 22:34 pm Post subject:

I've made some progress on the Scammell.....Having sprayed up the cab and added an acetate windshield (Which doesn't quite fit properly.....I'll have to try to hide the hole somehow!

), I touched up the interior and painted the seating:

[Image Deleted]

I was horrifed to discover an enormous ejector pin mark had obliterated the detail on my instrument panel, so I have sanded it flat and will attempt to paint on some dials etc. on it before adding it to the cab.

I then turned my attention to the driver.....It's quite a tight fit in the cab, so I decided to glue the steering wheel into his hand and paint both together before fitting them (I have quite a few drivers on the go right now!

). I figured the Hu 29 Brown I used for the cab would be a good base coat so I gave a fresh can a perfunctory shake and cut loose.....Big mistake!

What came out and settled on the figures was less like paint and more like greasy brown fluff.....I should have given the can a much more thorough shaking!

I've now cleaned the figures up and having thoroughly learnt my lesson I am about to try again.....This time I've shaken the can till my arm aches!

All the best

Sgt.Squarehead · Posted: Sun 05 Oct 2008 20:33 pm Post subject:

I'd got pretty downhearted with this build, having got stuck in my usual figure painting related rut and also having had a few detail problems.....The two sprues holding the wheels and more importantly their hubs, were just sheets of flash, resembling a pancake moulded resin kit more than an injection model.

Anyway I finally summoned up the will to deal with it and thus, I have just spent most of a week cleaning up the numerous wheels to an acceptable state. This has been an incredibly laborious process.....I timed myself and discovered it was taking over thirty minutes to clean up each hub! The hubs for the cab's rear wheels were particularly problematical, as their distinctive hexagonal shape was almost completely obscured.

I was planning on having a crack at bulging the tyres slightly, to accentuate the impression of great weight, but I wonder if I might not be pushing my luck! Nailbiting

However the fact remains that I simply adore this kit and this is definitely turning into a labour of love.....I hope Hornby can do something to recondition the moulds for this kit, because I would hate to see this 'Airfix Classic' fall by the wayside.

For what it's worth & all the best
Sgt.S
PS - Pics when there is something worth picturing!

feanor · Posted: Sun 05 Oct 2008 20:49 pm Post subject:

Ayup Andy...

Don't forget to show us (me !) how the front axle fits in relation to the chassis/cab and front end please. i can't work it out, and im NOT prepared to naff up ANOTHER axle...

Cheers, Stu.
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Owen · Posted: Sun 05 Oct 2008 20:51 pm Post subject:

feanor · Posted: Sun 05 Oct 2008 20:53 pm Post subject:

Ayup Owen...

Thanks. nice to see that forgetfulness isnt only the curse of the OLD..

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Sgt.Squarehead · Posted: Sun 05 Oct 2008 21:54 pm Post subject:

My cab is still seperate and the chassis is in bits, so as soon as I get it all together, I promise I'll take some pictures.

It appears to me that the front axle, Part 14, should be fitted between two sockets, one located on the bottom of the radiator and the other on the chassis frame. Part 14 should have two pins that will locate in these sockets, one on the front face and one on the back, but in my example the forward one has been completely buried within a plastic stub! The instructions suggest not using glue on this part, to allow the suspension to articulate.....That way madness lies, so I'll be giving mine a good dose of liquid poly!

Part 14 - Fresh off the sprue.....Yuck!

Back face with intact pin.

Front face with hideous blob obscuring pin.

Right at the moment I'm adding my oh so carefully sanded hubs to the wheels, in preperation for painting. As usual I am not following the recommended build sequence!

All the best
Sgt.S
PS - I've also just puttied a window.....In 20mm scale, now that really is a first for me!

Ratch · Posted: Mon 06 Oct 2008 01:30 am Post subject:

Sgt.Squarehead · Posted: Wed 05 Nov 2008 06:19 am Post subject:

I'm finally kind of back on course with the Scammell.....I can now see why the chassis and suspension of this kit has caused people so much grief recently.

I always remembered this kit as being very tricky to build and it certainly is. The assembly sequence is very poorly portrayed in the instructions......Making life difficult even when the kit was comparatively new and the parts were in good condition. The moulds now appear to be in a shocking condition.....On my example there are bad ejector pin marks and sink holes on most parts.

This is really problematical on parts 18 & 19 (the rear springs) where an ejector pin mark had obliterated the surface intended to mate with the chassis frame. I think I got it sorted in the end.....I certainly hope so as these parts, believe it or not, may be the key to getting the whole thing to sit right. I think that to get the whole chassis together you need to make a series of sub assemblies first and then mate them all together at one fell swoop.

The various subassemblies have now all been built and are drying.....I'll take some pictures of them shortly and then I'll have a bash at fitting them all together.....I'd say my chances of getting this one to sit level with all six wheels on the deck are only about 50/50 at best .

For what it's worth & all the best
Sgt.S
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Sgt.Squarehead · Posted: Wed 05 Nov 2008 17:05 pm Post subject:

That Scammell Suspension & Chassis (For Stu!

)
It worked.....This method requires a bit of faith, a lot of parts clean-up and some patience, but it does seem to do the job!

The Subassemblies

Here are the four subassemblies I built to make assembling the chassis and suspension a bit easier. The almost finished cab is in the background and from left to right in the foreground we have:

The drive train, consisting of parts 20 & 21, note that I have removed the locating pin from the underside of part 21 as it is now useless (too short and fat) and just gets in the way.

The front suspension, consisting of our old friend part 14 (now with the blob of plastic on the front face filed down into a facsimile of the pin on the rear) with part 22 attached. Getting a good strong join here is important, so clean up part 22 with care.....When it's right you will have four contact points.

The chassis, part 15 with parts 18 & 19, the rear springs, attached. Getting these two springs set up correctly is very important as they will provide the correct location for the drive-train subassembly (which the short fat pin should provide).

The Dry-Fit

Here are the subassenblies dry-fitted together.....This is a tricky process and requires a bit of patience. I strongly recommend practicing the sequence with the subassemblies a few times before getting the glue out!

HTH & All the best
Sgt.S
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Sgt.Squarehead · Posted: Wed 05 Nov 2008 17:59 pm Post subject:

Now with Glue (So I can take in progress pictures too!

)

First lie the cab on its roof and fit the chassis and suspension parts. Slide the chassis part forward and trap the re-fettled pins on part 14 between the sockets on the cab and the chassis. Use plenty of glue on the chassis, but don't glue part 14 yet, just ensure it is properly trapped between the two sockets (ie: slide the chassis right forward) and is free to move.

The next step is to add the drive-train.....Lift up the front suspension part and slip the gearbox loosely into position beneath it, don't glue it just yet though.....Instead, turn your attention to the drive shafts, part 20. There are two small tabs on the upper surface of part 20 these should be aligned with the inner edges of the springs, to correctly center the part. This will also give you the correct longitudinal relationship for the whole drive-train.

Use a good amount of glue as strength is your friend here, but don't go completely mad and dissolve the parts! Do your utmost to get part 20 parallel with the floor of the cab to avoid a wonky Scammell.....I had to add a very fine shim to one side. Once this is done you can glue the front end of part 21 to the bottom of the cab, centering it using the 'number one eyeball'. Again strength is your friend here so be generous enough with the glue to get a good bond.

At this point the front suspension should still be free moving and you can see how it was intended to work.....It will be getting a good gluing in due course! Everything may need some final jiggling around to get all the alignments correct, before being given plenty time to set.

Next up.....Getting it to sit level(ish)!**

For what it's worth & All the best
Sgt.S
** I'd say I'm now up to about 60/40 on the level Scammell front!

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daniel7891 · Posted: Wed 05 Nov 2008 18:57 pm Post subject:

Looking Good
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Daniel

Loll · Posted: Thu 06 Nov 2008 15:21 pm Post subject:

If you fit the front axle with the good pin into the radiator loop, reduce or remove the rearfacing blob only glue the 'A' frame to the back of the engine/gearbox and the front axle frame, you will have realistic moving suspension. Keep all the suspension holes close fitting unglued and the rear suspension can be independantly positioned & repositioned to extreme angles just like the real one. same with the trailer there is a right and a wrong way to fit the front to rear pieces that carry the wheels. The openings where the ramps fit need careful cleaning to allow the ramps to smoothly operate. The cables are the biggest problem if you want to re-pose them at any time. All in all a very nice kit BTW don't let your shelves fall onto it it does not stand up well to a cwt falling on it.

Oh yes the front mudguards, the shorter distance from end to bracket goes forward. Obvious when you know, but embarrasing if you don't realise ..

IIRCC the wheels are not all the same size. If you want a 30 tonner you need the tractor to have all big wheels the same size, whether you notice this though is not that important, what's ten ton between modellers.

Enjoy
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Sgt.Squarehead · Posted: Thu 06 Nov 2008 23:14 pm Post subject:

Realistic moving suspension in 1970 perhaps.....Today what you will get is a floppy Scammell!

I strongly advise anyone building this kit to glue everything solid once you've got it aligned how you want it or it won't stay that way for very long.

All the best
Sgt.S
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