- The Airfix Tribute Forum -

I have been using curtain weights for years now ,the ones I get weigh in at abot 10grms each and cost about 12p each ,also my lms stocks selfadhsive weights for r/c models in 10 and 5 grm weights

Couple of things, would not recommend Blu-tack
or its paler brother
White-tack, as over time they 'leach' an oily residue,
which could really spoil your paintwork.
P.V.A. works well, and unless you 'fly'
your latest master piece around the living room,
no problems!
Cheapest 'lead' available is from your local D.I.Y.
shop as roof flashing, and if your really lazy,
you can get the self adhesive type!

Paul

When I worked at Mettoy, I had the perspicacity to obtain some white metal 'sprue' castings and cram these into the available space

Just been to the local fishing shop and got some weights reasonably cheaply

This weekend I found a source for lead weight, I was replacing the kitchen faucet on the sink, the type where the nozzle is attached to a flexible hose that can be pulled out of the fixture, well to keep the hose under tension you have to clamp this big chunk of lead around the hose,

There's enough here to use on half a dozen Canberras (1/72 of course)

I have noticed just lately that there is some concern over tricycle undercarriaged aircraft models being tail sitters on completion. Many years ago (a heck of a lot actually) an old friend of my father's gave me this tip, take the principle parts of your kit the fuselage halves, wings and tailplanes and assemble with tape, so you have a complete airframe. Now try to balance the airframe about the mounting points for the rear undercarriage, if it pivots tail down then add weight to the front through the open cockpit until it is now nose down. You now break down the kit, take the weight and use it to make up the same weight in your preferred material e.g. curtain weights, fishing weights etc. Just remember to put the weights in before you close up the fuselage (yes, I have forgotten to do it).
I hope this is of help to those who need it

cool thanks

Very handy tip

.

I'm sure there is a post somewhere in here about what to use for weight in a nose to avoid tailsitters. But I'm blowed if I can find it, sorry. Can anyone point me in the right direction ? Need to add 30g to my Tornado it seems and wondered what the options were

Curtain weights are good, any good curtain shop should be able to help, lead fishing shot if you can find it (now illegal in UK), or shotgun pellets or lead flashing as used in roofing

Colin

Cheers guys

Threads merged

as this thread is about nose weights I may have found the place I need:

I have got to the point of almost completion on my UH-1n Twin Huey and during the build never thought it would be a problem, how wrong I was!!

As most of the model is complete I face a drama, how do I get the nose down now?

I built a Hughes 500Md and it sits fine. I have not yet put the foot well windows in so I am kinda hoping I can squeeze something in there...any ideas?

It's a 1/72 btw.

I had a similar problem with an Airfix Skyhawk. I thought I had put enough weight in, but when I put the wheels on it sat on its tail. I solved the problem by stuffing small bits of bluetac through the cockpit well, pushing it forward into the nose by using curved tweezers. Once in, the bluetac can be packed down out of sight and more added. That might do the trick?

Bob(K)

Ah of course, all this chat of attaching weights with blue tac I never twigged I could just use that itself, two heads eh?

Cheers Bob(K), i'll give that a go tonight, here's hoping....