- The Airfix Tribute Forum -

Hi all,

I once bought a liquid called "Crystaldisc" this was used to remove scratches from CD/DVD's etc and when used on glazing produced an amazing finish, I have been able to find it since but have been told that "Brasso" brings a similar result. Has anyone else had any similar encounters?

According to this guy it should work.

http://www.burningissues.net/how_to/scratchrepair/scratchrepair.htm

So should I use my CD repair fluid and a cloth to buff up my clear parts?

I have seen in a number of reviews that people use 'Sponge Sanders' but havent been able to find them anywhere? Is this a similar thing to my wife's nail polish spongy sandy thing that has four sides of differing levels of roughness(?) and bring her nails to quite an extraordinary shine before she covers that great shine in paint!!

So far, as I am a retread at this game, my clear bits end up with fingerprints, glue, and goodness knows what else on them and clearly (or not

hehe) obscure the pilot or cockpit I have so lovingly worked on!

Sorry but while i'm here: best glue for fixing clear parts?

Many thanks

I attach canopies in one of two ways. Which method I use depends on the way the canopy is "seated" in place. If the join is tight, clean and easy to access I'll use liquid cement on a very small brush-- just touch it to the join and let capillary action run it along the seam.

If the canopy is more problematic, I'll apply PVA (aka "white glue" aka "Elmers") to the canopy or to the spot where the canopy is going to attach, taking care not to get it inside the canopy. You can remove the excess with a damp tissue later. This type of glue shrinks A LOT so don't be afraid to use enough.

Don't use super glue, it tends to fog clear parts. Some folks claim that Klear will protect the canopy but this is not guaranteed.

If there is any damage or mould lines on clear parts I use a "nail file" available from department stores or chemists. It is a board with four abrasive surfaces from rough to super fine. A final polish with he super fine requires no further "goo" like Brasso etc. It is as good as new although I always give it a cote of "Kleer or whatever it is now called. That really finishes off the job. As far as gue I always use PVA wood glue as if in the case of a accident one can simply soak the part off and start again and it does not fog or damage the plastic as polystyrene or super glue does. With hand painted canopy frames, if there is a bit of overpainting onto the clear a wooden tooth pick usually cleans the unwanted paint off with little or no damage and whatever there is will disapear once the Kleer is applied.

ive had good results from the following:

remove seams etc with 2000 grit wet and dry paper, used wet with a bit of soap

polish surface with brasso on a microfibre cloth (cotton rag etc can be quite abrasive and leave its own scratches) until all the 2000 grit scratches are gone

refine surface further with automotive polish like auto glym super resin polish on a microfibre cloth

finish with a dab of automotive wax such as collinite or spray detailer (such as mequires or finishline detailer) on a microfibre cloth

that will leave you with a very clear, scrath free surface

toothpaste and cotton buds, works a treat

I agree with glen3312 toothpaste and a cotton bud works wonders! It has to be the white stuff though - the gel won't work.

I unfortunately used to much PVA glue for fixing my turrets together and ended up with them fogging slightly, inside, so i couldn't get to clean it off

LLoyds ~~Chemists~~ Pharmacy are doing one of their multi-buy offers. Imagination foam backed nail files/polishers are £1.20 with three for £2.40. Needless to say I now have beautifully polished ~~nails~~ erm .. canopies.

I sand down as needed using finer grades as required, I finish off with tooth paste and a damp tissue. A good rinse & dry then two or three coats of Klear.