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Ratch · Posted: Fri 28 Nov 2008 16:56 pm Post subject:

Got round to doing a bit more today, touched up the tracks and gave everything an Umber wash

I've also ordered some white-metal crew figures from Hannants, just hoping their glacial postal service allows me to finish before the closing deadline

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Ratch · Posted: Fri 28 Nov 2008 22:16 pm Post subject:

Here's where I'm up to

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Sgt.Squarehead · Posted: Sat 29 Nov 2008 01:35 am Post subject:

Looking good dude!

All the best
Sgt.S
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stuzzar · Posted: Sun 30 Nov 2008 12:29 pm Post subject:

Agree, I like the weathering. Looks good in that setting, very North Africa

Cheers

Stu

Ratch · Posted: Sun 30 Nov 2008 12:44 pm Post subject:

Thanks guys

I'm not really happy with the tracks

but can't think of a viable solution

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stuzzar · Posted: Sun 30 Nov 2008 12:48 pm Post subject:

I suppose that you could cut a couple of links out and then stitch or staple them back together

Cheers

Stu

Ratch · Posted: Sun 30 Nov 2008 12:53 pm Post subject:

It's more to do with the stiffness of the plastic

its almost pulling the drive and idler wheels off on both sides, without a 'natural' look of flow and sag

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stuzzar · Posted: Sun 30 Nov 2008 13:10 pm Post subject:

That is a problem

I thought perhaps that they were to long but if they are already straining the drive and idler wheels you obviously don't want to shorten them

Cheers

Stu

TimJ · Posted: Mon 01 Dec 2008 13:19 pm Post subject:

Nice work Ratch, looks like you'll be first past the post.
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Ratch · Posted: Mon 01 Dec 2008 14:38 pm Post subject:

Cheers Tim Cheers!

Its in the hands of Hannants now Nailbiting

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and was Jerusalem, builded here
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Ratch · Posted: Fri 12 Dec 2008 17:26 pm Post subject:

15 days later, my crew turn up

Back on the burner again

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and was Jerusalem, builded here
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Sgt.Squarehead · Posted: Fri 12 Dec 2008 18:04 pm Post subject:

If the tracks are stiff, there is a fairly drastic solution you could try.....Pull 'em off the kit and flatten them out, then chop them up into L&L.

You will need a length that runs from the top sprocket tooth to the top of the idler and another that runs from the middle of the first roadwheel to the middle of the last. You will also need one short length to run from the lowest available sprocket tooth to the first roadwheel (leaving a gap for a single link to smooth out the track-run) and a final short length to connect the last road wheel to the idler (again leaving space for a single link). Whatever is left should be chopped into links and used to complete the track-runs.

I contemplated using this method with the stiff grey tracks on my Airfix 1/76 PzIV Ausf D conversion, but in the end I managed to get away with just reinforcing the sprockets and using lots & lots of CA. If I build another PzIV with the same tracks I'd seriously consider going the homemade L&L route.

For what it's worth & all the best
Sgt.S
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James Russell · Posted: Fri 12 Dec 2008 20:45 pm Post subject:

The method the good Sergeant describes is the route I intend to take. An alternative would be to make a pattern, wrap the treads around it, bathe the whole thing in warm water, and then bury it in the snow for a while. It ought to learn to keep the shape this heating/cooling treatment gives it.

Good luck with your project.

You have a fine looking N. African Lee there. Humphrey Bogart should be helping Dooley Wilson to get the upright piano into the hull. You probably have other crew arrangements.

Ratch · Posted: Wed 17 Dec 2008 23:51 pm Post subject:

Here are the Mirage 1/72 M3 Lee Tank Crew - USA 1943 (702)

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Ratch · Posted: Thu 18 Dec 2008 00:11 am Post subject:

And I officially declare this build built

I had considered building this as a Russian lend-lease example or a British M3 General Grant, but eventually opted for a U.S. Army Lee in North Africa. Disregarding the instruction sequence, I started to construct the hull, but interrupted this to give everything a coat of Hu: 63 Matt Sand and Hu: 26 Matt Khaki, roughly mixed and brushed on. The interior hatch surfaces are painted in the camouflage colour. The interior components were painted cream. I continued with the hull to give a solid foundation. It was necessary for remedial work on the hull to close the gaps left by the first fit. I made a canvas mantlet for the main gun from tissue soaked with PVA.
At this point I was told that U.S. Lees were painted olive. If I’d checked my copy of Armour camouflage & markings NORTH AFRICA 1940 – 1943 all would have been revealed earlier; so the whole model was re-painted. All of the wheels needed reaming to fit on the axles. No filling or sanding was required. Klear set the foundation for the decals, which were applied using Microset and Microsol. The decals were sealed under another coat of Klear. The tracks were painted with Gift Set acrylics. Fitting them was problematical in that the road-wheel sets became un-fixed and needed repairing. The tracks were fixed with Evo-Stick Impact Adhesive. The model was weathered with a wash of Artisan water mixable oil colour 076: Burnt Umber by Winsor & Newton. The headlights were then painted in and when dry the whole model received a brushing of Matt Cote.
To compliment the build I purchased a set of Mirage M3 Lee Tank Crew – USA 1943. These are white metal figures in 1/72, manufactured in Poland. The castings needed little cleaning up, just a little filing on some seams. I used Hu: 1 Matt Grey Primer as the foundation for the paintwork. A variety of paints were utilised, as listed below. The finishing touch was to stretch a piece of sprue to add as an aerial.

Painting Profile:
Hu: 155 Matt Olive Drab = over-all colour
Xe: 818 German Tank Interior Cream = interior surfaces
Hu: 67 Matt Tank Grey = tyres
Hu: 85 Satin Coal Black = machinegun
Hu: 26 Matt Khaki = gun mantlet
Hu: 113 Matt Rust = exhausts
Hu: 85 Satin Coal Black = tool heads
Hu: 87 Matt Steel Grey = cable
Hu: 110 Matt Natural Wood = tool handles
Hu: 54 Metallic Brass = shell casing
Re: 57 Matt Steel Grey = warhead
Army Uniforms of World War 2 119 US Tank man, Sergeant (Grade 4) Armoured Forces, Tunisia 1943
Hu: 61 Matt Flesh = skin tones
GW: 61-21 Dwarf Flesh / GW: 61-18 Dark Flesh / GW: 61-79 Tanned Flesh / GW: 61-22 Bronzed Flesh / GW: 61-76 Flesh Wash = skin tones
Hu: 26 Matt Khaki = trousers
Hu: 72 Matt Khaki Drill = shirt
Hu: 86 Matt Light Olive = jacket
Hu: 98 Matt Chocolate = hair
Hu: 160 Matt German Camouflage Brown = boots
Hu: 66 Matt Drab Olive = helmet
Hu: 180 Matt Red Leather = edging to helmet
Hu: 62 Matt Leather = pistol holster
Hu: 155 Matt Olive Drab = jerry can
Hu: 142 Matt Field Drab = highlights
Hu: 11 Metallic Silver Fox = goggle lenses
Black Pilot G-1 Grip Pen = goggles
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and was Jerusalem, builded here
The new No. 2
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IPMS 10983

James Russell · Posted: Thu 18 Dec 2008 02:56 am Post subject:

This is a great build and a beautiful vignette! I love all the colour values - they work very well together. The addition of the red/white barrier offers a contrast to all the greens and browns. If I hadn't read your commentary, I'd have guessed Tunisia just by the looks of it.

In short - first class! Thanks for sharing your methods and your build.

Hawk · Posted: Thu 18 Dec 2008 10:19 am Post subject:

That looks great Ratch, good to see some Mirage figures painted up!

And nice to see the Matchbox Diamond T Rogers base in their too!

Great Work,

Luke
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Ratch · Posted: Thu 18 Dec 2008 16:34 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the comments

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and was Jerusalem, builded here
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IPMS 10983

TimJ · Posted: Fri 19 Dec 2008 12:00 pm Post subject:

Great work Ratch.

The figures give a sense of scale to the model.
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