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PostPosted: Tue 23 Oct 2012 17:36 pm 
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Hi chaps,

So I've built a few models in 1/72. A spit, a 109 and a 110.

And now I'm thinking, is it feasible to get a motor in there and spin the props? (during construction clearly)

Any tips from people who have already done this would be gratefully received.

Cheers,

Mike


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PostPosted: Tue 23 Oct 2012 18:55 pm 
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The Airfix electric motor examined here;

http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.o ... 11540.html

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 Post subject: Motorized Props etc.
PostPosted: Tue 01 Mar 2016 11:18 am 
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I would like to make some sort of base on which a model could be placed and connected to which would drive and control motors in the model. Driving propellers for instance.

But as I have no knowledge or understanding of anything remotely electrical I am hoping someone may have already done something of this nature to give me some guidance.

I envisage a base which would include:-

External: On/Off switch, speed control knob and terminals for connecting the models wires to.

Internal: Battery mounting and control circuit.

Has anyone ever done anything like this, or similar.

The motors I am considering are DC 3.7 Volt 30000 RPM.


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PostPosted: Tue 01 Mar 2016 12:08 pm 
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Please search before you post :idea:
Threads merged :!:

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PostPosted: Tue 01 Mar 2016 12:32 pm 
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The bases provided with Airfix 1/24 aircraft for connecting to the AF1004 1.5V motor should give you an idea of the layout the experts designed*. If you can acquire one of those it might be a good starting point. Some other thoughts - since the 3.7V motors are made for R/c applications you might consider ditching the control knob on the base and using a r/c unit instead; I presume suitable batteries are available to match the motors, but if (as I guess) they're rechargables, you'll have to decide whether you want them easily removable for recharging or whether to fit a recharging socket in the base. You'll also need to ensure the props you're powering are extremely free-running, because its easy to fry those coreless motors if they stall for any reason.

*I note the link to the motor details in Richard M's post seems to be broken; there should be plenty of photos/details available on t'internet, but if you can't find anything easily let me know and I'll post a couple of photos of one that I happen to have lying around.

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PostPosted: Tue 01 Mar 2016 12:45 pm 
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Thanks DD. I will have read up on R/C Units. I was thinking the props would be mounted on the motor shaft, so should rotate freely.


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PostPosted: Tue 01 Mar 2016 13:16 pm 
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What about N Gauge Model Railway Motors?
Regards,
Michael (wingnutmike)


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PostPosted: Tue 01 Mar 2016 14:14 pm 
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Pager motors used to be a cheap source. All you have to do is knock the cam off the shaft. Theoretically simple. I put a motor in a Matchbox 1:72 Fw 190A in 2009, and mounted a watch battery in the gun compartment.

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PostPosted: Tue 01 Mar 2016 15:12 pm 
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N gauge motors (a) aren't actually that small, often filling the tender or cab of a loco, and (b) are surprisingly heavy, being generally open frame with thick pole pieces (I have several lying around at the moment, as I am servicing a number of my N gauge locos - the trick when they're out of the chassis is to keep them well separated, otherwise they all congregate in one large magnetised lump). So generally I'd suggest the coreless option is better - there are numerous possible sources to reclaim them from, particularly old mobile phones or old printers, but the price new is hardly unreasonable. Re free running, I was thinking more of the clearance of the shaft through the fuselage/nacelle, it is important there is no brake on the motor when its under power.

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PostPosted: Tue 01 Mar 2016 17:50 pm 
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This is a pager motor, with its unbalanced cam, which makes it vibrate:
Image
Here's the Fw 190 I made:
Image
Here, you can see the battery compartment in the gun bay:
Image
Image

That same size motor will also fit inside a 1:144 Fw 190, too, btw:
Image
Image
But the wires had to come through an aluminium tube, attached to its base, to get to some electrical power. That's fine, as I made a diorama with that one.

This is a motorized 1:48 Tamiya Zero. It comes in the box with everything you need, including base, switch, motors and wires.
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

Tamiya has several in this range. I suggest you have a go with one of these foolproof things, and then you will have all the experience you need.

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PostPosted: Tue 01 Mar 2016 20:16 pm 
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Excellent Mr Brews. Thanks very much.


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PostPosted: Wed 02 Mar 2016 06:30 am 
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I hope you were joking about using a 30,000rpm motor, the blades would become little daggers as they separated from the propeller boss or spinner :shock: :shock:

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PostPosted: Wed 02 Mar 2016 09:37 am 
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The unloaded speeds of 3.7V motors go up a lot higher than that, I've seen them advertised at 65,000 RPM and I expect some can be found that are even faster. Although they slow a lot under load I suspect the 'power' curve is heavily weighted towards the top end, so yes, an ungeared prop is going to be moving pretty rapidly. With a large enough propeller - or how about a h/c rotor? - the tips might even be approaching supersonic. Competition to get the new Sea King to actually fly, anyone?

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PostPosted: Wed 02 Mar 2016 10:49 am 
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That's why I'm trying to find out how to make a speed control circuit. But my head is beginning to hurt. :-(


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PostPosted: Fri 04 Mar 2016 14:23 pm 
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Just add a potentiometer and slow the prop down to what you think is a reasonable value. Or start with a lower RPM motor, e.g. 5000 (example - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151989215495 ), I find 5000 is still a bit too fast but if there's the slightest bit of fouling between prop boss and fuselage it'll even sound like it's got an aero engine in it ;)

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PostPosted: Sun 06 Mar 2016 00:35 am 
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Seconded a simple potentiometer usually does the trick or you can put a 20k resitor inline on the supply feed aswell I built a diorama years ago with an airfix hurricanein 48th i used two variable micro pots and one under the base for fine tuning ....the other was hidden under a scale oil drum which you could turn!!! Was effective ....also as it was a 1.5v motor i would run for months on 9v battery at very low rpm!....or could be switched to DC mains using an external supply and a DC socket :scratch:

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PostPosted: Sat 16 Apr 2016 10:03 am 
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Brews wrote:
Pager motors used to be a cheap source

I guess pagers are not common anymore, but you can rip the vibrator motor out of any old mobile phone. I have done this (but not yet installed one in a model) and from the pic given, a mobile phone vibrator motor appears to be the same thing.


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