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PostPosted: Fri 12 Dec 2014 15:45 pm 
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Great, thanks for that.

That is what my plan was but then I wasn't sure! Thanks for the advice.

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PostPosted: Fri 12 Dec 2014 15:48 pm 
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If you go to my portfolio and look at my models; I frequently use enamel over acrylic and acrylic over enamel with no problems whatsoever.
With many models I put a layer of enamel colour on, give it a mild rub down then subsequent coats of the same colour in acrylic, or on disruptive camo the main colour may be enamel with the secondary colour being acrylic.

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PostPosted: Fri 12 Dec 2014 16:54 pm 
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I wouldn't get too hung up of colours such as Brick Red - just look at any brick building and you will see any no of shades of red/yellow/brown even in the same wall. As bricks are made by firing a clay and sand mixture the resultant colour depends both on the particular clay/sand mixture and even more so on the firing time/temperature of the kiln.
Brick walls also tend to age to different shades depending on the era and area - for example walls in industrial areas built before 'clean air' legislation tend to much darker from the soot etc. unless they have been cleaned. It really was 'grim oop north'!

IMHO if you painted a wall with just a single brick colour, even if it was the stipulated colour for the kit, it would look distinctly odd and characterless.
My solution would be to paint it with whatever colour you have handy and then pick out individual bricks with the same colour base mixed with either a touch of white/yellow or brown/red.

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PostPosted: Fri 12 Dec 2014 18:11 pm 
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Thanks everyone for all your posts and advice :thumb: :clapping: This forum is great for a newbie.

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PostPosted: Sat 13 Dec 2014 13:10 pm 
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Tamiya actually recommend using different types of paint. The instructions in their recent 1/72 scale model aircraft say that the overall painting should be done with lacquer spray cans, large areas with acrylics and small areas and weathering with enamels. However, they say you should never apply lacquers over the other two types of paint, and to use acrylics before enamels.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Tue 03 Feb 2015 05:40 am 
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dancho wrote:
That would be Tamiya and Gunze paints, and they really should be thinned with alcohol.

I've found that the best solvent for thinning Tamiya paint is actually lacquer thinner. I think this is called cellulose thinners in the UK. Once cured, it is very durable and easy to mask without lifting.'

I only use Gunze Leveling Thinner with Gunze Mr. Colour paint. The label gives the composition as 100% organic solvent. This does not mean organic in the same sense as, say, organic vegetables. A discrete sniff suggests that one of the components is acetone (nail polish remover). I believe that Leveling Thinner also contains a retarder to prevent clogging out of an airbrush and help ensure a smooth finish. Mr. Colour is also very durable and seems to tolerate masking very well.

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 Post subject: Re: Acrylics vs Enamels
PostPosted: Tue 03 Feb 2015 05:52 am 
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I tend to use a mix of acrylic and enamel when painting, although I have found that some brands (cough Tamiya cough) tend to become shiny after awhile compared to others e.g Vallejo. Although Vallejo acrylics are much thicker than Tamiya's meaning thinners are needed. The only enamels that I have used are Humbrol enamels and I've had no problems with them, other than the drying time, which can get annoying if you are wanting to paint figures fast. I recommend using the two as there are certain colours that come out better when painted using acrylics and vice versa


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PostPosted: Tue 23 Feb 2016 17:21 pm 
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Hi all.

Like many of you, I'm sure, I was raised on Humbrol enamels and having returned to the hobby I still use them. However, there are fume issues etc and I wonder whether I should change. I did try some acrylics a while ago but I didn't get on with them, but then it my have been that I was resisting the change? Some questions to help me:

1. are they are durable as enamels once dried?
2. are the colour options as good, or better?
3. how about cleaning airbrushes - easier?
4. what are the downsides - there must be some!
5. If I go for acrylics must I use "Future"?
6. quicker drying?
7. can be masked the same?
8. okay for decals, or better?

I would really appreciate you thoughts and guidance. Thanks.

Martin


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PostPosted: Tue 23 Feb 2016 18:13 pm 
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I was in the same position but have largely switched to acrylics as they're widely available and very easy to clean. The paint does dry quite quickly on brushes but working with water or possibly a retarder will help.

1. They seem fine so far but I matt varnish all my models now. Prone to scratches while working if not careful.
2. I've found something in some range for all colours so far.
3. :nod:
4. If brushing, one coat is never enough, or if you do it will be way too thick.
5. I varnish all models after finishing for durability and sealing in
6 :nod:
7. Yes, I've had no issues with tape or blu tack, and they don't gunk up the blu tack as much.
8. Seem fine to me.

Give a few a go, enamels and acrylics are not mutually exclusive :juggle:

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PostPosted: Tue 23 Feb 2016 19:04 pm 
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Thanks mate.... :)

Also there isn't a good Metalcote alternative? I've now got hooked on this so if I can't get something the same in acrylics that would be a stopper! :(

M


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PostPosted: Tue 23 Feb 2016 19:29 pm 
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The best aluminium paint I have ever used is a acrylic paint from Revell.
It have a great shine and are OK, not great, but OK to paint larger things with even using a brush.

It came with a starter set in a few small plastic "tins".

I must confess I don't like Humbrol acrylic paint that much, but find Model Master acrylic great. Please remember I use a normal brush as my tool.

Try a few like the normal camouflage paints, and work your way up to the tricky ones like yellow and white.

Jesper.

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PostPosted: Tue 23 Feb 2016 20:48 pm 
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Horses for courses. I despise Xtracrylics, but maybe I use the wrong thinner. Their own brand (Ammonia?) is supposed to be the go for them. Xtracolors (enamels) could be relied upon to dry forever ... but then I was using mineral turpentine for thinner. When I use lacquer thinner, they dry overnight - so no worse than Humbrol. When enamels are dry, they're tougher for sure.

If you're weathering with washes, it might help if you were washing an acrylic over a (fully-cured!!) enamel. Removal of excess acrylic paint could be done with a little Isopropyl Alcohol. Beware that IPA will also lift enamel, so don't overdo it.

I started using acrylics over 10 years ago. I still have most of my enamels since then, and I've bought several more - mostly due to lack of availability of the right shade of acrylic (e.g. Voodoo Grey). Enamels' shelf life isn't as good as acrylics, in that fully-dried acrylics can be brought to life with a good thinner, but then if the container is well-sealed it doesn't matter.

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PostPosted: Wed 24 Feb 2016 00:38 am 
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I don't know if you should switch from Humbrol enamels to Humbrol acrylics. Humbrol stopped being sold over here some time ago (it's available, I guess, but it's not like it was). In general, though, you'll find acrylics more difficult to use and will have all sorts of problems, including having the masking pull up the paint from time to time and airbrushing is a challenge.

When I converted to acrylics I made a decision to go all the way and stop spraying paint. Then I decided to avoid all masking. This removed the possibility of having the mask pull up the paint, and other problems like a "raised" line of paint at the edge of the mask. I found that certain acrylic paint (Pollyscale, MM Acryl, Revell Aquacolor, Xtracrylix) have an ammonia "base" and work well for the kind of painting I do. It's not dead easy but it's not impossible, either. Tamiya acrylics also work well with the right technique.

But I'm describing giving up the airbrush and the masking and learning an entirely new way to roll. I could not see any alternative since I wanted to make the air as clean as possible where I build models. It's worked for me, and I find that I enjoy it more than the old method. But, when I used an airbrush and masked (of course) I would never have switched over to acrylics from enamels. Actually, I preferred to use gloss enamels and the lack of availabilty of Xtracolor in the U.S. (back then) put me on the road to learning to mix my own colors from primary pigments. I'm thinking seriously now of making my own paint from "artists" acrylic pigments and media like GAC 200. Here's a link to some good info on using "alternative" paints (like craft paints) for modeling.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techn ... 43906.aspx

Modelers tend to be "traditionalists." I think that brushing acrylics is, as Howard Hughes once said about flush rivets, "The wave of the future." Whatever you decide to do, don't buy several bottles of any type of paint until you have tried out one tinlet or bottle and evaluated it for yourself. Don't take anyone's word for it. Taste in paint is a very individual thing. I found out the hard way that red paint, for example, tastes nothing like strawberries! :blob:

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