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PostPosted: Mon 11 Apr 2016 17:27 pm 
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Hi peeps now ive had a read throughthis forum and Im a tad lost. I putting that down to inexperience and different termology. Im trying to get a grounds for the bet sequence of painting and fi ishing a model but not sure if im right or missing loads of bits.

So here goes what I think
1 wash and undercoat model
2 Do the panel lines with a dark colour
3 Paint the model
4 Give the model a coat or two of Klear
5 Apply decals
6 Apply wash / weathering

Now between steps 4&6 is where I really get lost some people say coat the model with gloss or matt coat, some say apply Klear after decals and some say apply decal fix after laying each decal!!! Then the wash do I just apply and leave or am I meant to seal it some how???

All advice greatly accepted


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PostPosted: Mon 11 Apr 2016 19:39 pm 
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You're going to get a host of answers to this, probably conflicting, because there is no 'right' or definitive prescription, we all have to find what suits our own methods best. There's nothing fundamentally wrong with the sequence you outline, but the divergence will start at serial 1, since many people find undercoats unnecessary. The reality is that the optimum solution varies depending on what you are modelling (WWI fabric a/c? WWII camo? Natural Metal Finish (NMF) jets? Figures? Ships?), what effect you want (freshly out-shopped? war-weary? mud up to the eyebrows? Airshow display finish?), and in particular what the decals you are using are like (something you quickly learn, from the ultra-thin ultra-fragile to the thick as cardboard brutes, but none of us know exactly what we're going to be faced with until we begin to apply the first one). You will find, in fact, most of the answers are already here in other threads, but I do understand how difficult it is to pull out that knowledge. My suggestion would be to formulate more specific questions, search to see if they've already been addressed, and if you think not then ask people for their opinions on each particular point.

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PostPosted: Mon 11 Apr 2016 20:23 pm 
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As David says, there is no hard and fast sequence, many steps are optional. They depend upon what end result you are trying to achieve :juggle:
Sometimes I wash the runners, sometimes I'm too impatient and don't.
Mostly I prime, but sometimes I won't. I always undercoat and sometimes use honey primer for Alclad2 Lacquers.
I only pre-shade when I want some definition of panel lines.
For the main paint I was taught to apply the lightest shades and work towards the darkest (never light over dark).
Apply Klear as a foundation for the decals.
Apply the decals and seal with Klear.
Weather as/if required.
Matt, Gloss or Satin finish as appropriate.

You may want additional processes depending upon the subject.
Prime with black
Paint the exterior applying thin coats
Apply overall coat of Gloss varnish.
Apply the decals using Microset and Microsol liquids.
Seal with gloss varnish and allow to dry for at least 48 hours.
Apply washes. (Oil Paints heavily diluted with spirits) and paint details.
Coat overall with Matt Acrylic Varnish
When dry, dry-brush with lighter base colour and use torn piece of sponge to sparingly apply some more chips on edges, etc.
Spray Humbrol washes for dusty effect
Apply powdered pigments here and there for rust, oil, dust etc.
Add tracks and paint with acrylics
Either a soft pencil (4B) or weathering powders can be used for the worn metal tracks.

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PostPosted: Tue 12 Apr 2016 13:04 pm 
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I have developed a brush painting technique that works well for me and allows me to get a finish that looks like it was applied with an airbrush. I recommend Tamiya, MM Acryl, Xtracrylix or Revell Aquacolor paint. The clear coating are all done with Future/Klear or substitute.

1. Apply paint directly to plastic. Allow to dry.
2. Apply another coat. Allow to dry.
3. Apply another coat if needed. Allow to dry.
4. Apply a coat of Future/Klear straight out of the bottle to the entire model. Use a wide brush and scrub out each coat. Allow to dry.
5. Apply a second coat of Future/Klear. Allow to dry.
6. Apply decals. After all decals are applied, give each one a coat of Microscale Microsol using a brush. Allow to dry.
7. Mix two-thirds Future/Klear with one-third Tamiya flat base (by volume). Stir. Apply a coat of the mixture to the entire model except for any clear parts. Allow to dry.
8. If the model has a "frosty" appearance, add more Future/Klear to the mix before applying the second coat. Allow to dry.
9. Apply a third coat of mixture if needed. Allow to dry.
10. Draw panel lines on the model using an ordinary pencil (if needed).
11. Apply a coat of mixture to "kill" the graphite sheen. Allow to dry.
12. Apply post-shading to the panel lines using ground charcoal pencil and a Microbrush. See video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndYlzQII1YY
13. Apply paint chips using white charcoal pencil, silver pencil or silver Sharpie.
14. Apply exhaust stains, etc. using charcoal and Microbrush. Use photos to verify that these stains actually existed.
15. Post photo on ATF and receive applause and considerable sums of money.
16. Just kidding about the money.

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PostPosted: Tue 12 Apr 2016 15:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue 11 Dec 2012 20:39 pm
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Location: SW France
Thanks dancho, knew I wasn't doing something right - must try to get the hang of that step 15, even without the money. And dave18, just in case you don't know, what dancho calls a 'Sharpie' is what you or I would probably call a marker pen (not being brand-specific - it's a bit like Hoover and vacuum cleaner).

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PostPosted: Tue 12 Apr 2016 16:10 pm 
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Joined: Sun 10 Feb 2013 20:08 pm
Posts: 381
Location: Sevenoaks, Kent
I would completely concur with Ratch's treatment and is my general way of doing things..


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