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PostPosted: Mon 09 May 2016 14:41 pm 
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Hey everyone. Another stupid question :pirate:

How do you clean the dried paint parts from your enamel tins -especially around the lid, which hinders the closing of the cap, drying the paint over time- ?


Last edited by Slammer88 on Tue 10 May 2016 07:17 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon 09 May 2016 15:11 pm 
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Jars or tins?
On tins; when it gets too bad I carefully shave off the hard paint from the tin lip, making sure it goes out and not in. On the lids I go round chipping off the dried paint until I get to the bare metal again.
This is because I'm lazy. I should give the tin lip and lid a wipe with a piece of kitchen roll each time I use it to prevent the build up of paint.
I've never had the problem with jars.

PS: there is no such thing as a stupid question.

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PostPosted: Mon 09 May 2016 15:14 pm 
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With tins, rather than jars, I just carefully scrape any dried paint from round the edges with a file or knife. It usually comes off in fairly large chunks so it isn't too arduous a task.

On a related note, I've always wondered if I'm too heavy handed when stirring paint, as I do always seem to end up with it smeared around the top of the tins, leading to the situation you describe. It really is very annoying when you open a tin only to find that the contents has formed a thick skin, if not set completely.

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PostPosted: Mon 09 May 2016 15:21 pm 
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An old trick, which I believe Ratch may still use, is, as long as the tin seals well, to store the tin upside down. That way any skin which may form is on the bottom

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PostPosted: Mon 09 May 2016 15:39 pm 
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fred wrote:
An old trick, which I believe Ratch may still use, is, as long as the tin seals well, to store the tin upside down. That way any skin which may form is on the bottom


In my first modelling incarnation as a teenager I did that. I had a large, flat wooden box with a sliding lid. All of my paints went upside down in there in a single layer.

All I can say is that it's surprising how far 14ml of paint can spread, and how good an adhesive it is between a metal lid and a wooden box... :oops:

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PostPosted: Mon 09 May 2016 23:10 pm 
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I used to store my enamel tinlets upside down, but since I've switched to acrylics there is no need :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue 10 May 2016 06:12 am 
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Same technique, for the lids, but when paint gets hard, use multi-purpose tool, (Dremel), with drum sander, and clean out tin, and lip. When refilling tin, you have to run a bit of paint round the lip, to seal, or the paint goes hard, (back to square one). I do not know what price Humbrol paints are in U.K./Europe, but the cheapest I pay here in OZ is $2.90 AUS, (dearest I've seen it, is just a shy short of $ 8.00 AUS), so try to economise, by halving the tin contents.
Mike


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PostPosted: Tue 10 May 2016 07:16 am 
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Thanks for your answers :)

By the way, i meant "tins", not "jars". Humbrol and Revell's have tins, Testors have jars, right :)

I'm using Humbrol enamels primarily, and now i know how to clean them ;)


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